Walk with us in Berlin

It’s Sunday morning and Berlin’s quiet as we set out.  No shops open – not now, nor later, for these sensible people maintain Sunday closing and so we’ve planned our day carefully.

We’ve walked along this street a few times now but always on the market side, so have missed this small section of the wall which stands here, near to the line where it stood originally.

Across the street, several sections still stand on the line.  It’s not a pretty sight for not only is it shocking to think that this city was divided for so many years within our lifetime, but these pieces are an attraction for anyone with a felt tip pen, or a piece of chewing gum.

So, they’re covered with the stuff.  Yuk.

The streets are pretty empty at this time the day, but it’s an easy walk up to the Brandenburgertor, up there in the distance.

In the grounds of a museum, there stands a green “Ampelmann”.

When we want to cross though, we have to wait forever.  Patience needed!

We were crossing the street to take a closer look at this, the memorial to the murdered Jews of Europe.

Walking amongst the stones provokes our curiosity and we want to learn more about the concept behind the design but it’s cold and we are ready to move on. 

We don’t intend to linger here either, because we’ll be back here tomorrow.

I’m glad I didn’t choose to wear shoes like this today, though.  On cobbles, too!

We stand and watch a bunch of people squeeze an inflatable world into a frame, whilst my hero worries they won’t get it at the right angle.

Not bad, eh?

Come on then…on through the Brandenburg Gate where both sides have “stuff” in front of it.  A shame, that.

We’re now in Unter den Linden which is also a bit of a mess thanks to the major works involved in building a new U bahn line.

Outside the Russian Embassy there’s a line of neatly arranged roses, we assume to commemorate those killed in the Egyptian air crash.  The line goes on for quite some way and there’s maybe some significance with the colours?  More sobering thoughts.

On the next corner however, is a jolly trailer outside the Komische Oper.  We’re coming here tonight to see La Belle Helene and watching this makes us think we’re in for a giggle.  Roller skating men wearing skirts?  (Bottomless lederhosen?  errrmmm…)

The building site which is Unter den Linden right now goes on as far as Alexanderplatz, where the TV tower still stands.  We intend to peel off to the left some point along here though and perhaps won’t make it as far as there.

The building site stretches to both sides of the street now, with the Staatsoper under renovation too. 

Mind you, when there are decorative touches to the hording, it’s not too bad, is it?

Last time I came to Berlin, the whole of Potsdamerplatz was a sea of cranes like this – the city is still a work in progress it seems.

A good place to cross the road here, then, in front of the German History museum.  Quite tempting to go in there actually, but for today, we have a different destination in mind so we’ll keep going a bit further.

The Berlin cathedral stands on the other side of the river and looks a bit forbidding in this wintry light.  Rather than cross the River Spree here, we turn left and head up through a small artists market and over the next bridge.

At this point I’m going to growl.  You know why, don’t you?

Here we are on Museen Insel – Museum Island – and there, sitting high above the park beneath it is the art museum.  For once, we’re going to give that a miss in favour of the next museum along.  We’re heading for somewhere I visited on my last jaunt to Berlin and which left a deep and lasting impression on me.  I knew my hero would feel similarly and we decided to make it the focus of our morning here.

Keep going then.  There’s good news ahead.

There’s no queue whatsoever for the Pergamon Museum and we can go straight in.

Join us in the next post and see what it was that I so wanted to share.

A night at the Oper

I don’t know about you, but since I’ve been reading most fiction on my Kindle, I’ve noticed that publishers have upped their game a bit. They’ve made an effort to create more attractive and interesting books with features that can’t be replicated on a small handheld device and from time to time, I’ve felt that ebooks have been A Good Thing in providing an incentive to be more creative with the printed page and to produce something a little more extraordinary as a result.

Something similar happened last night.  We have got used to going along to the cinema, to watch opera live from the Met and to enjoy a relaxed evening with friends in a comfortable, spacious setting.  We take along wine, snacks, chocolates and from time to time have commented how much more civilised (and cheaper!) it is to see world-class performances in this way rather than pay a fortune to travel to London and buy tickets for the real thing.

It was almost as if someone was listening, though, because last night’s performance was so utterly magical and definitely couldn’t be replicated on any screen, however big, however superb the sound system might be.

It started with our realisation that this Aida performance was not going to be one which might have been performed in Verona.  There were to be no elephants, no lavish settings, no cast of thousands.  In fact, the stage was rather spare and having read that it was to be performed in modern dress, we were curious.  When we took our seats in the dress circle, we could see only a few boxes around the stage and a desk with some papers on it.  The backdrop was plain black with a screen.  We had no idea…

There might have been a little clue in the foyer as we waited for the auditorium to open, because from time to time a trumpeter would appear amongst us and play the first line of the Grand March – just a few notes to begin with, but then, a little more.  A small teaser for what was to come, then.

There was no curtain to go up, but as the stage came to life, we noted there was no orchestra pit – they were behind the black gauze screen on stage and the white screen, which was showing what appeared to be a montage of Egyptian themed images turned out to be a live screencast from a docucam over the desk – as the story moved on, characters were able to highlight particular images there and it was a most effective means of revealing their thoughts.

The big surprise, however, was yet to come.  The first act began with the principals on stage and gently, we heard a chorus somewhere.  Offstage?  Hmmm….not sure.  But then, a couple of rows in front of us, a gentleman stood up and began to sing in a rich, bass voice.

What!?  Wow!!

As the story moved on, the chap next to him stood up – he too was part of the cast; playing the King.  He had one of those rich, Russian-style basso profundo voices and I can tell you, everyone around us sat up in their seats.  This was magical.

Nothing could have been more magical than when the chorus began to sing, however.  By that, I mean to really sing.  We’d now worked out that they too were sitting amongst the audience; we could see a group of men in the boxes either side of the balcony as they stood to sing but we could hear women’s voices from downstairs in the stalls and elsewhere.  At times, it was rather like being part of a flashmob.  We just didn’t know who might stand and sing next, or where the glorious sound would come from.

Of course, it all came to a climax in the Grand March, which was one of the most fantastic, completely immersive experiences I’ve enjoyed.  The sound was extraordinary – the more so because it was all around us, we were part of it.  Everyone in the audience around us was captivated too – we sat open mouthed.  Wow.

The story doesn’t end well, sadly, and the second half doesn’t contain any such triumphs, but nevertheless, we all left the opera house buzzing from the experience and I’m sure we’ll not be alone in counting that particular performance as one of the greatest opera experiences ever.  Sure, a night at the cinema is fun and we’ll still enjoy watching Anna Netrebko and Jonas Kaufmann (oh….Jonas Kaufmann…..!) now and then. But one thing is certain.

There really is nothing like live music.

(a review and better description can be found here, in German but Google does a pretty neat translation into English if you need it!)

Einkaufen gehen

Our plans for today, Saturday, were to go shopping.  We didn’t have specific things on our list but as always when we are in Germany, there are some favourites to look out for.  So, after breakfast we set out to the U-bahn, past the windmill we’d seen last night – doesn’t look anything like as enticing in the daylight, does it?

We waited for the characteristic Berliner green “Ampelmann” before crossing, wary of the strict fines imposed here for carefree jaywalking.

Tickets bought, we are set for the duration of our stay (and longer!)

The bright yellow train with the Brandenburgertor design on the windows is soon with us.

We’re heading for Wittenbergplatz and when we make our way to street level, we’re delighted to find the station is maintained in the old style.

The advertising is all in keeping, including this one: a hint as to our first destination this morning.

The Kaufhaus des Westens – or KaDeWe – is a landmark shopping destination and having been there some twenty or so years ago, I had only sketchy memories of it.  The calico bag I acquired on that visit remains in regular use in my collection, however!

Christmas was in full swing just beyond the doors and this beautiful tree was attracting quite a bit of attention.

It’s an unusual colour scheme and lavishly decorated - I’m not sure if I love it or loathe it!

We both loved the traditional glass tree decorations on sale beside it, though we decided they were way too fragile for our careless fingers and stone floors.

And though the KaDeWe bear of the year, Rudi, was very cute and very soft, he too stayed put.  We decided to head for the homewares to take a look at the seasonal table decorations and suchlike, but as we did, I spotted a familiar name and jumped off the escalator.

My hero had spotted a familiar name too – so I took the Steiff route and he headed for Marklin.

Whilst he browsed the trains, I took a closer look at the bears, including some eminent characters.

Much too sweet to end up at the bottom of the lake I hope!!

In another corner of that same floor were the Christmas decorations, including the traditional figures from the Erzgebirge.  We could have stayed amongst them all day, but having wrapped up warm against the cold weather, we were beginning to overheat and were both in need of fresh air.

Out on the street, the first flakes of snow were falling.

We continued to mooch in and out of shops: I looked for a coat in Peek u. Cloppenburg but nothing took my fancy.

So we continued along the Kurfurstendamm to the Breitscheidplatz dropping in and out of shops here and there.

In Karstadt we found ourselves amongst Christmas things again and enjoyed gleaning a few ideas to recreate at home, maybe.

By now, we were both flagging a bit.  Time to return to the U Bahn and make our way back to Potsdamer Platz to put our feet up for a while.

We changed trains at Wittenbergplatz and were soon back where we’d started.

The temptation to walk back through the lavishly decorated Arkaden was too great, though and we took a look around before going across the street into the hotel.

Here we found more Christmas decorating ideas and still more temptation to buy!

Simple things, pretty things, beautifully displayed.

But right now, my feet are complaining and I’m ready for a rest.  We’ve booked an early supper at the restaurant across the street because we have tickets for the opera tonight.

Enough for now, then.  We’ve got to leave some things for tomorrow

Black Friday

I soon tired of deleting what seemed like hundreds of “Black Friday” offers in my email box and didn’t buy a thing.  Instead, we jumped in the car and headed east.  To Heathrow.  To Berlin!

A couple of hours later, we’d arrived at Tegel airport, hopped in a cab and by 5.30 ish, we were comfortably settled into our hotel on Marlene Dietrich Platz.

I’m not sure if they expected a pair of erudite readers this weekend or what, but my hero has a choice of classics to read – a good cure for insomnia, I think.

I have a couple of business texts and this – auf Deutsch, of course.  That might be anything but a cure for insomnia…no sleepless nights wanted here, thank you!  (A good job I brought my kindle and my current read, Let the Great World Spin)

Anyway, a quick unpack, a few thoughts of Ellis and Mary in Thousand Oaks Mall (on Black Friday!!  aaaagh!) and we were out in search of dinner.

It’s Advent weekend here and yes, Christmas has begun.

No problem in finding the perfect start to the weekend!!

The Lindenbrau bierstube was buzzing, the beer was great and the food terrific.  Our weekend was off to a fine start.

Comfortably stuffed (or, in my hero’s case, uncomfortably stuffed!) we took the longer route back to the hotel, groaning at the mere thought of more food.

We stood and admired the “windmill” coffee and gluehwein kiosk outside the shopping mall.

Resisting the temptation to go and look inside – shopping can wait until tomorrow.

Instead, we strolled along the little market stalls selling gingerbread hearts

and chocolate tools (yes, don’t they look real?!)

Taking a peek at the ice rink and the brightly coloured Christmas tree before retreating from the cold night air to the comfort of our hotel.

Goodnight from room 703.  See you in the morning for more adventures!

Here and there

The decisions of the judging in September were announced at the UK Bus Awards ceremony on Tuesday and so we found ourselves in a rather posh popup venue on the South Bank amongst old friends.

Though it was a lunchtime affair, you’d never have guessed for there were twinkly “stars” shining overhead and the lighting was – ermmm – interesting! 

By the time we left, it was already dark even though it was only late afternoon and walking back over the bridge we reflected on what a great city it is!

We decided to stay over and made plans for the evening, amending them when events took an unexpected turn.  Still, it means we’ll just have to do it all again when everyone is fighting fit again, won’t we?

We enjoyed a walk through Horseguards to Roux at Parliament Square, then, noting the almost-permanent traffic jam along the approach to Westminster.  Driving here must need such patience.

We walked back along Whitehall, paying particular notice to the Women’s war memorial, adorned with knitted poppies and small tributes from WI members amongst others.

Yesterday morning, we were up and about to find the new location for the Georg Jensen shop, no longer in Bond Street.  We soon found ourselves in an unfamiliar corner of the city, quite a haven of peace even though it was a mere step away from the bustle of Piccadilly.  Here in Mount Street, Mayfair, we enjoyed a quiet stroll around until the magic opening hour of 10am!

I loved the Christmas decorations outside this estate agent’s in Mount Street.

This cute car version of our favourite Brio railway made an interesting shop window too.

Next door was a rather more traditional display.

And there, in between two shops lay a small pocket of green: Mount Street Gardens.  I can see why this is a choice place to live!!

Across the park though, I spotted somewhere we had been before – this was not altogether new ground, then, because a few years ago, Edward had sung in that little church which is actually on South Audley Street.  I had got my bearings again.

Georg Jensen found, then, decisions made (but no transactions completed!) we made our way back to Selfridges and more familiar territory.

Our appetites whetted for taking new and rather interesting diversions though, we decided to take a different route back to the hotel, this time through St James.  We had another small errand to do here and in the space of five minutes and the space of a dozen or so buildings snapped a couple of chapters of British history.

I’ve learned quite a lot about Ada Lovelace in this, the centenary of her birth so was pleased to see her name on this building in St James Square.

Whilst I stopped to take that photograph, my hero had spotted an interesting registration plate.

A couple of doors along from Ada’s home, though, was another blue plaque.  Here, at Chatham House, where all manner of important issues of the day are discussed, former residents include Pitt the Elder, Lord Derby and Gladstone and some remarkably eminent souls have passed over that particular threshold.

This square could surely tell some tales: look who lived here.  It’s now home to the In and Out Club and that third blue plaque in as many minutes rounded off our morning walk nicely.  A spot of lunch around the corner and we were ready for home. 

Be it ever so humble…