Eventually

I got my act together and started working on my December Journal!  Well, it is the 5th…

It’s been a funny old week.  Of course, I began it half way through really, since we were in Berlin until Tuesday night and Wednesday disappeared in a mountain of unpacking, washing and general sorting out.  On Thursday, it was my WI Christmas lunch which is usually a jolly affair in a local hotel, but this year we were a little subdued.  The husband of one of our dear friends had died a week or so ago and his memorial service was in the little village church on Thursday morning.  Though she wanted us to carry on with the Christmas lunch as planned it was strange without her and of course, she (and her dear departed husband) were both on everyone’s mind.

Of course, there was shopping to be done and a Christmas tree to choose – even though it won’t be brought inside until next weekend, we know there won’t be any more to choose from later in the week.  So, we decided to go and sort that one out before the weekend rush and were glad we did – first one we saw, we liked  (but of course, we had to look at another couple before we could settle!)

I loved these juniper hearts for the door, but really couldn’t justify spending so much on one, however lovely they are.  I shall hope for calmer weather tomorrow and find a few bits in the garden to make one instead.

And all the week, I was aware that I hadn’t even started my December Journal.  I hadn’t looked at any of my goodies from Berlin and hadn’t really done anything in my studio since the girls came to play a couple of weeks ago.  I knew that the longer I left it, the harder it would be to start.  So today, I decided to do nothing else until I had got it up to date.

First thing was to get the Christmas bits out.  Much easier to complete a page a day if it’s all there at my fingertips, so I pulled a few things from my stash and added them to some new things from this year and settled down to begin.

I knew the colour scheme I’d chosen but decided to leave the covers till later – maybe until the end?  So, right now, it’s not looking especially promising!

But inside is a bit better: a page about advent calendars, one about making my Christmas cards the other day and a few bits and pieces from the Christmas lunch (cracker jokes are usually pretty reliable for that page!)

There’s a photo of choosing the tree and a page about the Christmas cards which are now arriving by every post.

There are still piles of “stuff” on my other worktops though, including a set of numbers for next year’s advent calendar found in Karstadt last weekend, the empty packaging from a box of Advent tea we found: a different tea for every day of the month, individually packaged in a numbered envelope.  I feel sure I can find a use for those (the paper envelopes I mean – of course, we’ll drink the tea!)

Last but not least, the hotel where we had lunch was decorated with paper stars which caught the attention of the ladies around the table, who now want me to show them how they’re made at next week’s WI meeting.  Well, though I’ve made them years ago, I just had to check that I could still remember how…so samples have been prepared and left, half finished on my worktop.

The good thing is, because it’s been such an odd week, I keep thinking today is Sunday.  That means, I get a bonus day tomorrow!  Woohoo!

Jetzt fängt das gute Leben an

It’s December.  Yesterday, we were still in Berlin but packed and ready for home last evening.  There were just one or two things left on our list and having tracked them down, we planned a long, late lunch before heading back to the airport and home.

Checking the first thing off our list was easy.  Every time we passed this stall in the Christmas Market outside our hotel, we noted the candles for our windmill at home but hadn’t wanted to schlep them around all day.  Whenever we came back later in the day, we forgot.  So this morning, we decided that we had to buy them then or risk going home without any.  We had a jolly chat with the lady running the stall who said she’d be there from 9am until 10pm.  That’s a working day and a half!

The giant sized windmill outside the shopping centre was doing brisk business for it was a chilly morning with a cold wind blowing.

We headed for Leipzigerplatz, where we’d read there was an enormous shopping mall.  Really?

Really.  Who’d have known?  The shop fronts are small and unassuming from the street and though we’ve been walking past the square every day when we went to the U Bahn, we’d never noticed it.

Though the majority of the stores inside were the usual familiar names, one stood out for me.  I had come across Idee in Wiesbaden a couple of years ago, but had forgotten about it till now.  My hero happily sat using the free wifi whilst I browsed the wonderful selection of classy craft materials.  There’s the morning gone, then

No, not really!  I’d still been looking out for my socks and the Peek und Cloppenburg department store in the mall here didn’t sell Falke, sadly.  We discovered the reason why when we looked in the shop next door.  Hooray!  Two pairs of Falke Berlin wool-cotton knee socks to add to my collection.

It was good browsing the mall at this time of day – nobody much around.  Both of us were ready for a hot drink now though, so decided we’d head back to the Christmas market and find a little something there.

We went back across the square and over the ever-present reminder of days gone by.  The wall went right through the centre of Leipzigerplatz and we have spent the last few days criss-crossing it.

A hot Eierpunsch hit the spot. It was pretty potent, too!

We giggled and wondered if the man on the crepes stall has a special Nutella knife to get into the corners?!

Later, having checked out of the hotel, we enjoyed lunch in Lindenbräu, watching as a lady took a folding ruler from her orange handbag and carefully measured the base of each of those fairy-light figures.  Having done that, she fiddled about with something amongst the Christmas trees.  Why?  We have no idea, but that didn’t stop us coming up with a few silly reasons anyway.

And that was that.  Stuffed full of beer and Bavarian goodness, we grabbed a taxi to the funny old airport at Tegel.

I went in search of a couple of favourite magazines and came across this interesting translation: Julia’s Kinderschokolade = Julia Child’s chocolate?  (or should that be Julia’s Children’s chocolate, do you think?)

My favourite Schöner Wohnen and Living at Home magazines, both chock full of Christmassy ideas and seasonal recipes.  I love them.  As I headed for the till, I spotted an eye-catching new title  – Ma Vie.  I flicked through it and added it to my bundle.  A card was attached to the cover with the words:

Jetzt fängt das gute Leben an

though somehow, I think it started some time ago…

In the Bundestag

We’d tried to book a visit to the Bundestag when we arrived but were unsuccessful; there was no availability until next weekend.  We felt cross that we hadn’t thought ahead, but the concierge in our hotel had an idea – he’d book us a table for dinner!

So this evening, we set out in drizzly rain and found ourselves in front of the Brandenburgertor with hardly any traffic.  Picture time!

Just to our left, outside the French Embassy lay hundreds of flowers and candles.  Another sad reminder of events in Paris the weekend before last.

By the time we reached the Bundestag, the rain was falling heavily and though that looks like a lovely moon in the photo, it’s actually a raindrop (or two…)

Through security and up in the lift, we dodged the rain a couple more times as we scuttled across the roof to the restaurant entrance.

We had a beautiful window table with a fine view of the city – though as we noted, looking east there’s not much of a skyline, although the TV tower at Alexanderplatz kept coming into view and disappearing again as the clouds came down during the evening.

The food was delicious, although we’d both choose somewhere offering more hearty fare normally.  In particular, my pudding was quite cute I thought – a hazelnut parfait wearing a spiced prune beret with winter spiced biscuits and tiny plums.  As yummy as it looks, believe me!

Before leaving, we walked up to the top of the dome and down again, getting dripped on from time to time because it was still pouring with rain outside.

A fine view of the cabinet meeting rooms from here, too.  Don’t you love the transparency of government here?

No—one sitting at this time of night, of course.

With a last look through the “ja”, “nein” and “enthaltung” division doors, we went out into the rain and back to the S bahn.

Fingers crossed, the weather front will have passed through by morning.

Import/export

Well, in our case, forget about the second part on this trip.  The worldwide spread of culture has resulted in there being very few things we can’t buy at home – or our German friends can’t buy here.  So, our list of things to bring home is rather shorter than it used to be – and the similar list of things we bring for our friends consists of just a couple of items now.

So, what will we bring home this time?  Where do we head for and what do we buy when we are in Germany?

On Saturday, in KaDeWe, we headed straight for the Falke department.  We can buy some Falke socks in John Lewis, but not quite the huge range available here and my favourite “Berlin” socks are most easily found in department stores here.  They fit beautifully, are comfortable and don’t fall down and above all, they live forever (or seem to do).  Sadly, this time, they didn’t have my size and colour so I left empty handed.  My hero, however, managed a few pairs of his favourites, so at least one of us is content.

Next stop, when we see one, is a WMF. 

Here can be found good quality tableware and every cooking implement you could possibly need.

As we stood chatting to the sales assistant and saying as much, we added “and some you never knew you needed until you saw one”.  She pointed out this:

Apologies for the poor photo but perhaps I was distracted by the concept of the “Nutella spreading knife”, specially shaped to fit into the curve of the jar so every last bit can be retrieved.  There.  You didn’t know you needed one, did you?  (No, we didn’t)

On almost every street is a DM and I find it hard to pass one by.

The equivalent of Boots or possibly more Superdrug, this is where I find a few favourites.

My Bayrischer Blockmalz sweets which you’ve seen here before if you’ve been reading a while.

Mostly, though, I’m here to get the amazing bath “cures” for all kinds of aches and pains, colds and flu and, at this time of the year, the special “Winter magic” salts which smell of Christmas and which I love.

One of the first things we do in a German city is look for an OSKA shop.  There’s one in Cheltenham now and several in London, but none have quite the range as in the German stores and of course, there is quite a price difference too (more or less the same in pounds as in Euros here)

Next, I don’t go looking for a Nivea shop – we can get most of it at home, of course – but if I pass one by, it’s fun to get some of the Christmas tins for stockings and small presents.

This store was particularly sparkly and was launching the new Nivea perfume – yes, you can smell like your favourite blue and white tin!  (why?)

Last but not least, the supermarket haul.  Spaetzle, which are sometimes in our local Lidl but not very often, a packet of knödel, rahmsauce mix for making geschnetzeltes at home and last but not least, a packet for Kaiserschmarrn.  Four long standing favourites which we’ll treasure and share.

Now, thinking of that bath for aching joints and muscles….I might just go and make use of its remarkable healing powers.  There could be another short blog post later, for we have interesting plans for this evening.  But for now, the bathroom is calling…

(oh and in case you’re wondering what we bring to Germany when we visit our friends: Gingernut biscuits and Yorkshire Tea Bags!)

And then…

Turning the corner and finding the entrance to the Pergamon museum, my hero will go and sort our tickets out whilst I take care of coats and bags.  Security is especially tight here today and we are allowed nothing but a camera in our hands.  Admission includes an audio guide and there are plenty of lockers and an efficient cloakroom so actually, it feels good to leave everything there.

We can go right inside through a small, unassuming door and turn right…

Oh yes, it’s exactly as I remembered it, if not better.

The magnificent Ishtar Gate from Babylon stands immediately to the right as we step inside.  It was this that I’d remembered so clearly.  Me!  The non-historian!

But who wouldn’t have remembered such fantastic relief animals?

Such wonderful lions treading softly along a bright yellow pathway decorated with daisies?

Though parts of the 6th Century BC gate are still being restored, it didn’t matter one bit.

Because the mirror image is there to see on the other side.

We spend a while taking it in, marvelling at the scale of the whole assembly and trying to imagine it complete – this is only the smaller of two gates which would have stood there and they’d have been approached by a long walkway.

Only part of that is there, together with a model so we can get a better idea of what would have greeted us upon entering Babylon by the Processional Way.

The Pergamon Museum is rebuilding some areas and so much of it remains closed.  We took the opportunity to see what’s still open, however and did a quick run through the Assyrian Room where these finely carved panels adorn the walls.

I rather liked this piece of Assyrian jewellery too.  It’s dated well considering it’s been around for more than 2000 years, don’t you think?

My hero spotted this similarly aged wall fragment, all neatly constructed with shaped bricks which piece together incredibly accurately.

And I’m keen to see the beautiful Aleppo Room.  According to our audio guide, it still stands in Aleppo, welcoming visitors as it always has done.  Except that it probably doesn’t.  Who knows?

Of course, there’s heaps more to share from the Pergamon Museum but for now, we’ll move on.  It’s lunchtime and we’re feeling peckish!

Back out into the building site of Unter den Linden, the crowds are just making their way to the museums – we timed it well!

We are heading for Gendarmenmarkt, where we stayed on our very first visit to Berlin, some twenty five or so years ago, in that red roofed hotel.  There’s a Christmas carket here which we might look around later, but for now, we’ll find something to eat.

Blue and white signage is often a good sign, suggesting that Bavarian food might be served here.  Sure enough, Augustiner offers a great selection of favourites and refreshed by a couple of Weissbiers, we are happy.

 

It’s almost 4 pm when we leave…

Though it’s not quite dark yet, the Weinachtsmarkt is bustling.  Unusually, there’s an entrance fee, so we pay up and in we go.

We understand it’s a security precaution, for this year the Christmas Markets are seen as being rather vulnerable to…well….all kinds of things we’d rather not ponder too long on.

So, we join the happy crowd amongst the clove scented stalls between the two cathedrals.  This is a beautiful setting and the air is cold enough to feel seasonal.

As dusk falls, we hear music coming from the steps of the Konzerthaus so we make our way through the crowds to see what’s going on.

A troupe of young ballet dancers are performing on a small stage and doing a grand job in spite of low temperatures.  It’s altogether quite magical to stand there beneath the cathedrals, amongst a jolly crowd watching the dancers under the twinkly lights.

A stern Madame watches from the side as her dancers put on a wonderful show.

Meanwhile, back in the market, two angels make their way through the crowds.

They are wearing stilts and tower above the heads of everyone around them.  They’re glamorous and rather lovely, dressed in fur and twinkles.

But we giggle at their “feet”, fixed to the bottom of their stilts.  Even angels have a sense of humour it seems.

It’s getting dark now, so we head for a small bar for a drink before leaving.  Isn’t it lovely?

Thankfully, cosy inside too.  It’s almost time we were heading to the Komische Oper, just over the street, for the performance of La Belle Helene which starts at 6pm today.

I note the sign and follow it.  Nice one, don’t you think?

No photos from the show, of course, but suffice to say, it’s the most hilarious opera we’ve seen.  Very gay – it’s attracted a large number of gentlemen in the audience! – those lederhosen worn by the extraordinarily camp dancers are not quite what they seem and are “cheeky” in the literal sense of the word!!

What fun!

The theatre, though modern outside is traditional in style and very comfortable indeed.

The seats are electronically enabled for reminders and subtitles in the language of your choice, too.

For us, we are simply too swept along with the events on stage – roller skates and the most amazing costumes plus, needless to say, outstanding performances by the cast.

Afterwards, we collect our little chocolate truffle (“Eine fur alle”) on the way out and decide we’ll walk back to the hotel.  Though our feet are aching, we are pleased of the night air and hum our way back.

It’s been quite a day, don’t you think?