On the road again

Another day, another breakfast venue!

No sooner had we set off than it was Texas-time.  We crossed the state line on an ordinary country road though, so no fanfare, no song and dance and just a small, unassuming sign.

Mind you, there was a reminder on every sign from then on.

We had a long drive today and my hero had identified a couple of places worth taking a break.  The first one was in Marshall.

The Marshall Depot was the home of the Texas and Pacific Railroad Museum.

Here, we met Laura who gave us the lowdown and he who knows about such things was quite impressed.

After a quick look around the displays, we ventured outdoors into the intense heat where Laura unlocked the caboose…

This was where the crew had made themselves at home on the immensely long journeys they made and it was kitted out rather like a caravan inside.

The huge engine alongside was there to be explored too.

I could see my seat waiting there, so climbed inside and made myself at home.

I even waved to a fellow driver across the way

Mind you, it wasn’t easy to see where I was going – what a good job the rails are there to keep the train on track.

That was that then, for the T&P.  We thanked and said ‘bye to Laura and set off on our way once again.

We knew we’d have to take the Interstate later, but for now, the US 80 was just fine.

We were heading for Kilgore and the East Texas Oil Museum.

We watched an introductory video in which we learned that this museum had an international reputation for excellence and led the world in its field.

The first few exhibits were focused on life in East Texas when the oil was first discovered.  I admired the way the ephemera had been displayed and yes, it had been well put together.

As we admired the immaculately presented Ford motor car, however, we were corralled by the “Master Docent”, an elderly gentleman who wanted to tell us his story.  We were ready to move on, though, eager to learn about what we’d come here for: oil.  So, at the first opportunity, I did my best to escape.

“C’mon over here!”

He spotted us moving on before he had finished what he had to say.  He was standing by an old ice box; the predecessor of a fridge, and wanted to tell us about how his Mother made him ice cream on the 4th of July.  Thankfully, by now, another family had appeared and with the cover of additional people standing around, we made our escape into the next room.  I felt mean, for after all, the man had a wealth of information to share.  But we had limited time and didn’t really want to stand listening to his ramblings when we’d come to view the museum.

So when we stepped into the next room and heard a voice calling to us and attracting our attention, we looked up for fear of having been followed!  How could he have climbed that lamp post though?

We had nothing to fear.  The museum was set around several dioramas, some of which had “live” action figures telling a story and this chap was introducing the story of how the discovery of oil brought huge changes to this area.

Most were set in a bit of a ramshackle scene which could have used some of the same focus as the first displays.

Some were a bit spooky, like this newspaper editor whose chest inflated and deflated rather extravagantly but who was otherwise lifeless. 

But I think it was the “Journey to the Centre of the Earth” that pushed us over the edge.  It was time to hit the road again and leave the people of Kilgore to tell their story to some less cynical visitors!

Almost two hours later, we were approaching our destination.

Well, it seemed like a good idea…

With the skyscrapers of Dallas shining like the Emerald City on the horizon, we counted down the miles to Fort Worth.

Even the flags are bigger in Texas!

We plan a couple of days fun here in Fort Worth and have just enjoyed dinner at Riscky’s, possibly the first meal I’ve had in ages that didn’t include shrimp!

Goodnight then, from the Lone Star State x

It’s all about the journey

A moving on day today.  We left the Civil War behind – hotel cannons too – and headed west

 

over the Mississippi Bridge into Louisiana.  (Oooops, nearly missed that sign on the State line!)

Sadly, I did miss the big welcome sign but it’s tricky taking photographs when travelling at speed!

There was quite a different landscape on the western side of the river – a flatter, more agricultural scene than we’ve seen at any time this trip.

To begin with, along Highway 80, it was mostly corn growing alongside the road.

But soon, a different crop was there.  We were unsure at first but decided it was soybeans.  I took a photo so I could check once we had access to Google again

The towns were a little scratty, sad to say and it didn’t look as if any of them had hit the big time recently. I think life in northern Louisiana must be pretty hard going if towns like Talullah, above, were anything to go by.

 

Still, it’s always more interesting to stick to the byways and even if the sights are unconventional, we still enjoy the observations!

From time to time there’s a bonus sighting for someone (guess who?)  This train passed us by slowly enough for Mary to wave to the driver (and get a wave in return).  No sooner had we got over the excitement than…

There was another!  (and another wave…)

Our first stop was scheduled for Monroe, LA, where there was an old Coca Cola bottling plant; one of the first, apparently.  But try as we might, we couldn’t find anything of the sort. 

So we moved right along towards our next “highlight” at Gibsland.  Only one problem…you know that railway line?  They were working on one of the level crossings and with only 500m to go, the road was closed!

Seriously closed too.  No sneaking through!

The car in front of us took a left turn down a small lane though, so we followed it and sure enough, we made it across the ricketiest of bridges and into Gibsland.  As we crossed the bridge we could see them replacing the rails.  No wonder we couldn’t cross.

Never say we don’t have adventures though.  We had overcome several difficulties to get here…

Yes, this was the Bonnie and Clyde town.  But having got this far, we decided the place looked so hokey, we’d not bother going inside!

I peered through the windows though!

Oh, and guess what was on the opposite corner of the street?  Another Bonnie and Clyde Museum!

Their car was parked outside the first one though, so we thought we knew which one was the real deal.

Time to move on, then.  But look what we found.  Second time today!

Thankfully it was an easy diversion and before too long we were arriving in Bossier City, just across the Red River from Shreveport, our destination.

I had to take this picture for my British friends, for whom “pants” has an altogether different meaning.  Just think, nearly $15 for ironing three pairs of pants (even if you did get the 4th pair free)

Anyway, though we knew Shreveport to be a gambling destination, the contrast from what we’ve seen today was still a surprise.

We’ve booked Hilton brands throughout our road trip, mostly opting for Hampton Inns until now.  With no Hampton Inn in town, we booked a straightforward Hilton hotel but on our arrival, our reservation had become lost.  Thankfully, on a Tuesday out of conference season, there were plenty of rooms available and since he had to make a new booking for our rooms, we got them at today’s last minute, bargain price: nice one!

Nice view too

Dinner tonight was at the Blind Tiger; the name a reference to prohibition days, I discovered.  Mary and I chose fried shrimp, which was yummy, and it was my hero who did the local thing tonight: he chose a shrimp platter with fried shrimp, blackened shrimp, shrimp ettouffee, shrimp pies with deep fried corn and jambalaya!

Oh and I forgot to say,  Louisiana is a new US state for us and when we stepped out of the car in Monroe, we chalked up #46.   Ker-ching!!

The Battlefield

Directly across the road from our hotel is the Vicksburg National Military Park.  We’d read about this in a blog some time ago and after this morning’s iffy experiences, we looked forward to a contemporary and professionally designed attraction as we’ve come to expect from the National Parks Service here.

First, there was a video introduction to the events.  I never for one minute lost concentration, Mary stayed awake and yes, my hero watched it all through as well

From there, we picked up our map and jumped back in our car, because we’d decided to drive the 16 mile route.  We could have download an app to follow on our phones, but with data charges considered, that wasn’t really practicable.  Another option was to buy a CD to play in the car with a commentary, or we could do as we did in Gettysburg some years ago and have a park ranger come with us in our car and give us a guided tour.  Whilst that had been a really great way to learn about the events in detail, none of us were sitting an A level History exam with a Civil War module this time, so we opted for the simplest choice: we’d follow the map and guide ourselves.

There wasn’t too much traffic so we could take things at our own pace.  Fairly frequent memorials and markers were set on both sides of the single track, one way road and having stopped at the first few, we soon realised that if we were to stop at every single one, we’d be here for a week.

We hadn’t gone far when there were a few spots of rain on the windscreen.  It had been 97F when we went back to the car after the presentation, and the sky had looked a little dark in places, so perhaps it wasn’t that surprising.

We enjoyed spotting the various landmarks and changing landscape. doing our best to tally them with the map.

Though actually, once we were close enough, everything was very clearly marked with a blue sign for the Union and red for the Confederacy.

To begin with, we were driving through Union lines and yes, it was starting to rain heavily now.

I was happy with the window wound down, taking photographs, whilst Mary held onto the map and read the commentary as we approached a key point along the way.

Except that soon, what had been a refreshing few drops of rain became a torrential downpour and rather than get soaked, we would the windows up quickly.

As it thundered and lightened, we sat it out a while and stopped the car.  There was no fun to be had driving when we couldn’t see anything.

As is often the case, these things don’t last long and we were soon on our way again.

We continued our tour and simply followed clear signs as we reached the furthest point.

We came upon this white tent and thought that perhaps there had been an event in the park this weekend, before realising that this was the display of the USS Cairo, a Unionist Monitor ship which had been sunk by the Confederates.

Whilst Mary and I didn’t really want to dodge the few raindrops that were still falling, my hero was keen to see the Cairo at closer quarters, so off he went whilst we took a short nap!

Back on the trail then.

Past a cemetery where rows of simple stones marked the graves of some of the 17,000 souls who lost their lives here.

By this time, we were on the Confederate side.

Here was General Pemberton, who finally had no choice but to order the surrender.

Here was the monument to the dead of Mississippi.

Local men whose families attended the dedication of the monument and who appeared in the striking photograph alongside it.

And finally, here was Jefferson Davis, President of the Confederacy, whose house and office we’d visited in Montgomery.  I always find it pleasing when a thread runs through our travels and when, eventually, loose ends come together like this.

We knew we’d reached the end of the trail because lo and behold, there’s our hotel right opposite!

Our day wasn’t quite over though, because Bernina was calling about seven miles up the road at Stitch and Frame.  Don’t be fooled by the plain and unassuming exterior though, because inside is a dream of a sewing store!

Just a few quilting frames set up in the corner, alongside the latest Bernina commercial embroidery machine.

Everything Bernina in the next room too, alongside a few reels of thread.

Needless to say, there was a huge room full of fabric too, but I was simply too overwhelmed and forgot to take a photo of that.  But suffice to say, if I could have transplanted the lot to Gloucestershire, I’d have been very happy.

This evening, I chose a Mississippi speciality for dinner: catfish, hush puppy and fries.  It was delicious!

Taking sides

Though it has inevitably been a topic of conversation here and there, we haven’t really been 100% immersed in the outcome of last week’s referendum as much here as we would be at home.  People here are interested, though, and seem amazed (as we are) that the Brexit choice was the outcome.  All we can say is “we did our best”.  I say this because we are in Civil War country now.  A war which happened 150 years ago but which still divides the people here.  Who knows how many years divisions appearing in our own country will take to heal?

Out we went this morning, into a humid 94F already, so we steamed up immediately.

Acclimatised, we arrived at the Vicksburg Old Courthouse, site of the town museum.

The approach was full of Civil War-related items because here in Vicksburg, it’s the Civil War which looms largest.

But when we saw two small signposts, we did a double take.

Oh, come on!  Surely there were not separate entrances for men and women?  Well, no, those were the signs to the public loos:  We all went straight through that front door!

Inside we found a pretty old fashioned museum, unchanged from the days when glass cabinets were containers for all manner of bits and pieces and the concept of the “visitor experience”  had not really been considered.

Anything and everything had been placed in a cabinet, together with an information card giving details of the donor as well.  Exhibits had been sorted into broad categories, so this was the Civil War room, for example.

Oh yes, there were curiosities a plenty, such as the Minie Ball Pregnancy. 

But there were so many things in there that at times it was hard to see the wood for the trees.

That, coupled with all the information cards, meant that some cases were simply overwhelming.

Upstairs told a similar tale.  Lots of interesting bits and pieces but in such quantity that it was difficult to know where to look.

This meant that in some cases, the items were simply not adequately conserved.

The costume room in particular was simply crammed full of treasure.

I had no problem identifying who I’d take home with me though, given the chance.  This bear had been given to a small boy by Teddy Roosevelt and probably had the most breathing space of anything in the museum, actually!

Just when I was thinking that they’ve probably got at least one of everything here, sure enough, there was another of those top hat baths we saw at Gaineswood the other day.

As we left the museum, we chatted about our experience.  Sure, the two gentlemen ?volunteers? had been charming and very helpful but perhaps they needed some support in cleaning, sorting and reducing the number of things on display?  But if the Old Courthouse had fallen short of what we’d expect from a 21st century museum experience, then our next destination was to plumb further depths.

Our next stop was the Old Depot, formerly the Yazoo and Mississippi Valley Railroad Depot which was now advertised as another museum of Vicksburg.

As soon as we opened the door, we were greeted by “Where y’all from?” and were given a breakdown of what was on show here.  Having paid our $5 each admission, we were recommended to see the visual presentation about the Civil War which would inform our visit and explain the battlefield diorama too.  A young man was summoned to show us to the location and to switch the thing on – we sat on folding chairs in and around the diorama and watched what turned out to be a slide show on the TV high on the wall.  It lasted 30 minutes, during which time Mary tried not to fall asleep, I compiled a shopping list and my hero – of course – watched every bit.

Having watched the whole show, we looked around the diorama and the assortment of model boats, took a brief look at a couple of model railways before making a swift exit.  This had been a really amateurish affair and once again a little curation wouldn’t go amiss. 

By this time, it was almost lunchtime and Vicksburg had sprung to life.  The leafy Main street was bustling with traffic and was much as we’d expected Natchez to be yesterday.

We spotted The Mad Baker and popped inside for a cool drink and a bite to eat after which we went on to visit the main visitor attraction of Vicksburg; the battlefield itself and another National Park triumph.

Meet me in the next post and I’ll tell you about it.

Along the Natchez Parkway

You know, everything has been so good so far, at some point there was bound to be disappointment!

We left Jackson early this morning, before breakfast, because we wanted to spend most of the day in Natchez, reputedly the most beautiful Antebellum town in the region.  Several people had said that we “must see” it and as there was a National Scenic Drive on the way there, our expectations were high.

As we left Jackson, we reflected on what was the most un-capital like of state capitals, but acknowledged that we’d enjoyed our stay here, the people had been simply lovely and the food delicious.  We were glad we’d spent time here.

Feeling peckish, we pulled into a Waffle House, scene of happy breakfasts from earlier road trips, most particularly in Kentucky, a couple of years ago.  The friendly crew there were working hard, calling to one another in their broad Mississippi accents but there were one or two dodgy looking characters about.  Never mind – our breakfast was good!

Out on the open road again, we didn’t have far to go before the Parkway entrance.

I had the map but the satnav knew the way.

The Natchez Trace starts way up north in Nashville TN and finishes in Natchez, MS so we were joining it to drive the last stage.  I’d not come across the term “Trace” before and was curious about its origin.

OK, so we had 82 miles to drive along it and looked forward to a scenic drive.

Except that for most of the way, both sides of the road were tree-lined and there was no view whatsoever. 

From time to time there was an information post and we stopped at some, including this one at Lower Choctaw Boundary. 

Both boards made for interesting reading.

We were indeed driving along an old, old route.  How many people had passed this way, I wondered?

For a short time the view opened up and we drove through cornfields, but before long, we were back amongst the trees. 

We were glad of another exhibit and a chance to stretch our legs.  We were the only car on the road for most of the time too, so those 82 miles were starting to drag a bit.

Of course, we wanted to see what lay behind us and were curious about the old route, but where was it?

We reached the conclusion it was this grassy, tree covered pathway leading through the forest, but might have been mistaken!

Before long, we were in Natchez and headed straight for the Visitor Centre.

There on the wall was a “Great River Road” sign, part of the same route we travelled last year as we drove from Little Rock to Chicago.  It’s always fun to come across such things in unexpected places!

We were glad to arrive here, feeling a little disappointed by the “scenic drive” and maybe it was this disappointment which affected our experience here.  For the first time, the Mississippi magic wasn’t there.  The staff member who offered us advice simply handed over the leaflet and made two recommendations – no social extension, none of that delightfully charming chitchat that we’ve become used to here and I took refuge in the National Parks store at the end of the exhibit.

Here, I had an interesting and enjoyable conversation with a 1st grade teacher and was delighted to come across a kit for a “Pine Needle Basket”.  I had no intention of buying the kit really, but years ago I was asked for advice about how to make a traditional pine needle basket (or rather, how to judge such a thing in a county show) and I had to admit, I had no idea.  After all this time, I now see what a pine needle basket looks like!  Hooray!

Natchez is all about Antebellum Mansions, so off we set to the first recommendation we’d been given: Stanton Hall.  Our first surprise was the $19 per person ticket price.  Wow…  But there was a guided tour, and this had come highly recommended, so there we were, on the 12 noon tour.

We rolled up to the front door as instructed a good five minutes early, only to find the door locked closed and the tour already started!  Excuse me…   The door was opened and we were slightly grudgingly welcomed to the group.  The tour was interesting, the house lovely – but 30 minutes later the tour was over – someone had to leave early and so the guide made sure we finished in time.  Hmmm.

No photographs inside either.  Double hmmm.

Now feeling a bit grumpy about Natchez, this antebellum gem, we wanted to go down to the river to see if any steamboats were tied up there, since they feature large in publicity images of the town.  Needless to say, today there were none, but we enjoyed gazing over the Mississippi towards Louisiana and watching the huge barge struggle to motor upstream against the current.

What to do now, then?  We couldn’t decide whether we’d had enough of Natchez and ought to quit whilst we were behind, or…

go and see another Mansion?!

We knew we’d made the right decision when Barney, the National Parks Ranger showed up and began his performance.  Because yes, this was indeed more than just a guided tour!

The house was great, too.  Similar in style to Stanton Hall, it was Barney’s lively commentary which made the difference.

The floors here were covered in painted oilcloths, beautifully preserved.

There were interesting features like this punkah (or shoo fly), too.

 

Upstairs, there were interesting wallpapers; this one had been chosen for a newly married couple’s bedroom

and this one for little sister’s room next door.  I’m not sure I’d have chosen either, but as wallpaper designs, they were pretty stunning.

We were glad we’d decided to finish our Natchez visit with a look around Melrose with Barney.  Once again, the National Parks turn up trumps!  But it was time to go: Sorry Natchez, we just couldn’t see what the fuss was about. 

So back we drove in a northerly direction, heading to Vicksburg for a couple of nights.

It’s been another hot day – 95F – but I’m hoping we don’t have to check the veracity of this claim whilst we are here.  The Civil War Trail tomorrow will probably provide all the excitement we need