Thank you, Joachim Raff

Because if you hadn’t been the founding Director of the Dr Hoch’s Konservatorium here in Frankfurt, we wouldn’t have been here to enjoy our weekend.

Not forgetting to thank my hero too, because had it not been for his efforts on Raff’s behalf, the choir wouldn’t have had any music to sing this evening.  It was just a couple of short years ago that Die Sterne was heard for the first time at a recording  in Sweden and I encourage you to follow that link and hear it for yourself.  If you’re short of time, go straight to the fourth movement!

The walk to the Konservatorium was, like many of our Frankfurt walks, hindered by road works!  Sadly, it wasn’t the stroll along the riverbank as we imagined, but a brisk step along a deserted road.

The concert was super.  Of course, you will be able to read a full and detailed review here when you know who has dotted the i’s and crossed the t’s.  The young horn player in Die Sterne was outstandingly good and it was definitely one of those concerts which left us humming the whole way back to our hotel.

For it was a remarkably quiet walk back along empty streets until a collective “oooooohhhhh!” was heard from a nearby beergarden.  As it stated on the blackboard leaning by the door:

“Deutschland v Griechenland.  It’s payback time!”

We went into the hotel bar for a nightcap and watched the emotional roller coaster ride as it happened.  There was no need of the TV screen because the crowd told us all we needed to know!

Germany 4  Greece 2.

Result.

Ready to roll?

I know, you were having such fun reading that silly Google Translate page about the Eisernersteg, weren’t you? 

“Before the Iron Bridge was built, there were in the former magistrate under Mayor Daniel Henry guts of black stone numerous submissions and discussions on the part of the people who complained that currently the only bridge was not enough communication with the southern parts of the city and the surrounding area to . Never and never to improve, it said, could the old bridge the increasing cab rides to the train stations to cope with the loads of stone, and especially the increased loads of beer. But the magistrate was stubbornly whether the cost of this project.”

Of course, you could always read it in German ;-)  But you got the gist of it, I think?

Anyway, let’s go around the corner, past the end of the former "Rapulzelgaesschen” towards the Dom (cathedral), which isn’t really a Dom at all, it seems.

These old buildings are so lovely and very evocative.  We love the small turrets, the little oriel windows and the little attic windows in the roof.  It’s easy to get a crick in the neck from looking up there, isn’t it?

I’m not so sure about much of the graffiti in this part of town, though this quirky little group on a building screen near the U-bahn is fun, don’t you think?

Come on, rather than hang about we’ll go right inside…oh, wow.

It’s so light and airy in here and the modern stained glass windows are so attractive.  Shall we stop a while and read how it was rebuilt in the 1950’s, whilst at the same time admiring one or two of the memorials around the walls?

I think this chap has a rather fine swan-shaped helmet, but have no idea who he is.  He turns out to be Rudolf von Sachsenhausen – all credit to Google Images!

As we leave, I thought I’d point out that the Three Kings have visited and left their chalk mark on the door.  Did you know about that tradition in German speaking countries?

Back into the main shopping street then, and look who’s here on the street corner!  He’ll think we’re stalking him, won’t he?

Now, I can’t pass by this particular lebkuchen shop without stepping inside and spending a little money on some yummy Elisen to bring home.  How kind of the assistant to let us try a sample or two too!

I think we can manage without a “Bananen Blitzschneider” from the shop next door, though, don’t you?  However, another shop is calling me from across the street…

I’ve seen some interesting products from Faber-Castell recently.  I wonder if they have them in stock?

Sadly, though the gentleman is remarkably helpful, the products don’t appear to be available outside the USA.  He is keen to show me the contents of this chest, however; the grand prize in a recent Facebook draw, won by a woman in Brazil, he says.  Apparently, someone bought three of these chests last week – it wasn’t you, was it, Dorothy?

Accompanied by some very jolly xylophone tunes played by two young men outside Peek and Cloppenburg (lovely name, isn’t it?), we’ll stagger the last few metres along the Zeil to Konstablerwache, where we began our stroll this morning.  My hero is talking about his aching back and I’m rather ready for a cup of tea as well.

Let’s leave the afternoon shoppers to it, shall we?

Walk with us in Frankfurt

You are definitely going to need your comfortable shoes on this morning.  I’ve got the map and my hero will keep us on the right track, I’m sure.  Before I left home, I did a little internet search to find a particular shop and this morning, we’re going to try to find it, OK?

Setting out from our hotel, the weather looks fine and it feels good to get some fresh air, doesn’t it?  Not many people are up and about yet and a city centre street is pretty much the same the world over.  We’re right by the Konstablerwache station, by the way, in case such things are important to you.  We’ll walk towards the river Main, down Kurt-Schumacher Strasse (no jokes about the speed of the traffic making it feel like Michael Schumacher Strasse, please!)

But though one city centre looks much like another, somehow this could only be Germany.  Something about the building style, the street furniture and so on.

OK, yes, I spotted that clue as well!

We need to cross a large junction, where the inner ring road crosses our street.  There across the road is the Jewish Museum of Frankfurt, with an intriguingly shaped roofline.  Come on, we must behave ourselves and with true German obedience, we have to stand and wait for the green signal to cross, even though there isn’t a car anywhere in sight.  We don’t want a tap on the shoulder, as happened to Tante Hilde that time, do we?

Looking at the letterboxes at the front door of that apartment building, are you thinking what I’m thinking?  That if everyone but one has a “no junk mail” sticker on his letterbox, the one who doesn’t have such a thing is going to get the lot?  Hmmm….

Oh, here we are at the river – the Main is quite a large, fast flowing one at this point and we’re crossing the Alte Brucke.

There’s a fine view of the city from here, with the tower blocks of the financial district over there.

A couple of oarsmen are getting in some practice too.  Nice stroke!

Looking over my left shoulder, I can see a new construction over there and my hero thinks that we’re heading in that direction when we go to the concert tonight.  Could be quite a nice walk along the riverside, if it stays dry.

Over on the Sachsenhausen side of the river, however, we need to think about where we’re going.  It all looks pretty residential around here and I hope we’re going in the right direction.

Would you just check on the map for me?  We’re aiming for Oppenheimer Strasse…or was it Oppenheimer Land Strasse?  I really ought to have checked…

Though there are some beautiful, grand residences on this street, it really doesn’t look right.  Oh dear.

Aha.  We’re in Schweizerplatz and suddenly I can spot one or two shops there amongst the trees.  Did I hear a sigh of relief?  You bet!

These are smallish, one-off shops, with interesting and stylish goods for sale.  This little tea shop has a beautiful display out on the terrace.  Shall we call in and take a closer look later?

I don’t want to stop now, because my goal is in sight – over there, the black and terracotta shop.  Stepping inside, I can see a comfy sofa, so you can sit and chat to my hero whilst I try on a few things, ok?

I’ll only be a minute  an hour!  Oh, and that DM store there has a great selection of cosmetics and other stuff.  Just a tick….

Well, that was worth the detour wasn’t it?  I think I owe you a drink, so shall we stop at the Eiscafe Milano?  What do you mean I’m carrying all the money anyway?

I really don’t mind ;-) 

Now, do please be careful of all these cyclists!  I know there’s a cycle lane on the roadside but somehow, these people prefer to ride on the pavement.  None of them use a bell, so we’ll just have to watch out.  Let’s return to the riverside and walk along the promenade to cross over to the old town by a different bridge, shall we?

What a lovely green space and who can blame those people for bringing their lunch out onto the waterside on such a fine day?  But watch out, more bikes here, too.

Wow…can you see that huge barge…where’s it from?  Belgium we think, or at least that’s where the two cars parked on the roof are registered.  Mustn’t it be strange to live and work on such a barge, moving form one place to the next the whole time?  What about school?

Right, here we are at the Eiserner Steg, the pedestrian bridge where hopefully, we won’t get run over by a mad cyclist!

I love the font of the carved stone sign, don’t you?  And how are your knees holding up?  Mary, I’m sorry, there are no lifts on this side of the river…can you manage?

Oh look, they’re fixing padlocks to this bridge like they do in Paris – do you know about that?  I can’t remember where it is, but feel sure I’ve read somewhere that young couples have almost covered a bridge there with these little symbols of love.

Here, have a read and see what you reckon!  Here on the Eiserner Steg, there are not that many – yet.

Is that menu you just picked up?  Funny that, I was just beginning to feel a little peckish, too.  It’s a while since breakfast and here in the Romer area of the old town, there are a few likely looking places.

What will it be, then?  Well, there’s no decision to be made really, is there?  Haxen and Kartoffelpuffer with applesauce!  (Pork knuckle and potato pancakes)

Oh, and of course…

Hefeweizen!  Our favourite beer tastes so good when freshly served and drunk in the sunshine and I’m not so good at talking when there’s a plate of delicious food in front of me.  Shall we meet up again in a bit?  There might even be time for some culture this afternoon!

Cheers!

The Organ Grinder

Last night, when on our way to find some supper, we heard the unmistakeable sound of a barrel organ. An elegantly dressed gentleman was there on a street corner with all the traditional characters there with him, right down to the monkey sitting on top, even if it was only a toy!

Next day, enjoying our lunch in the sunshine, we spotted him going off to work again, his three small dogs in tow. We imagined he would set up not far from where we were, there in the old town, where there were tourists a plenty. But shortly after, when we decided to enjoy our dessert at a nearby ice cream parlour, who should arrive and sit at the next table?

During the next couple of hours, as we strolled about the city, he could well have thought we were stalking him, for every time we turned a corner, who should be there but you know who.

It did give us plenty of opportunities to observe the master at work, however!

First of all, he spotted a likely bunch to target. Here's some jolly folks out for the afternoon. Catch their attention by having the monkey doff his hat. If they don't notice, then give them a squirt with a little water pistol!

Having stopped them in their tracks, offer someone a go, turning the handle.

Now they're giggling, dancing even...have the monkey squirt that water pistol again whilst continuing the lovely sound of the barrel organ. It doesn't seem to matter if the guy keeps turning the wheel or not. (Strange, that)

When they are ready to move on, pass the hat round, gather the many euros which come your way and move right along to the next street corner and begin the whole show over again.

It's got to be more fun than this, don't you think?

Can you work that trick out?  Passers by were intrigued enough to wave their hands beneath him, for he really did look as though he was sitting, completely unsupported in mid air…

(my apologies for reformatting this entry but I didn’t want to leave it as it was!)

Wir sind hier

It felt strange to leave Mary back at home, but with the shout of "see you in Phoenix!" that's exactly what we did.

Joining the after-work crowds in the Opernplatz this evening, we wished she could have joined us for an Aperol Spritz (or two) and a plate of hearty German fare.

Sitting in the sunshine, we enjoyed the people watching and after a couple of hours, returned to our hotel where we sit with a couple of Hefeweissen to the sound of football on the TV somewhere nearby. Next door, a group of dermatologists are attending a conference about Psoriasis in the restaurant by the name of 'Motions'. Only a doctor could appreciate that, don't you think?