Are you ready?

Come and walk with us in HongKong!

First, we’ll have a spot of breakfast, though.  OK with you?  The hotel is pricey and a little over the top for our simple needs, though, so we’ll dip into Pret a Manger next door.  Feels like home!

Before we can go anywhere, too, we’ll need to buy a ticket.  The counter should be around here somewhere.

We’ll buy an “Octopus” card each, shall we?  Just like a Metro card or an Oyster, but different seafood!  We can use this on the MTR, the tram, the bus and the Star Ferry too.

Off we go!  Funny how it’s possible to see from one end of the train to the other. So clean and quiet too.  We are soon in Central Hong Kong.

Mind you, there’s a long way to walk through the station to find the correct exit, but there is a moving walkway to speed things up a little.

There, at the top of the stairs is the sign we were looking for – Des Voeux Road.  We have an idea to catch a tram to take us to the Western Market and start our meanderings from there.  OK?

The trams are old and a bit rickety, but a good way to get from one end of the island to the other, and since they travel in a simple straight line, we’re not going to get lost.  We’ll get on at the back and work our way forwards to get off at the front, like everyone else, of course, but don’t forget to swipe your Octopus card as you pass the driver, or you’ll be in bother.

Oh my, do please maintain your cough manners too, will you!

In no time at all, we’re here at the Western Market.  hop off quick and take care crossing the road.

This old building houses several small shops, including a few gift stores downstairs and some fabrics on the first floor.  Guess where we’re heading?  Let’s buy some pretty silks to make a couple of scarves, shall we?  We can pretend they came from some exclusive store.

What do you mean can we make them before we get on the ship, so we can wear them with a posh frock? 

OK, I’ve got some sewing needles with me, but we’ll need to go up Pottinger Street steps to buy some thread.  Let’s look for the escalator to the mid-levels.  There’s a sign there on the lamp post.

But look over there!  There’s heap of bamboo and a bundle of cable ties – they are about to erect it as scaffolding.  My goodness, I’d not feel too secure with that, but I understand that it’s even better than metal scaffolding in this climate.  Can you imagine building a skyscraper with only bamboo to support you?

Ok, let’s go over the road and along the bridge which leads to the escalator.  Not many people about at this time of the morning.

We’ll stay on as far as Hollywood Road, shall we?  That’s the street where we bought the lovely old embroideries we have framed on our staircase and perhaps the shop is still there?

Well, no, it isn’t, but there are a few other interesting places along here and it’s good to get off the main streets and into a quieter area, isn’t it?

There are a few interesting bits of heritage around here as well.  This is old Hong Kong, where some things really haven’t changed a great deal.

With so many antique and art stores around here, too, who knows what you might find in the bin outside?  One man’s trash is another man’s treasure and all of that.  But really, I’d rather you didn’t hang around and take a look because how would you get it home?

Anyway, look, there’s some interesting street art over there.

On the other side of the street, there’s a food market.  Fresh fish!  Still swimming! 

Let’s go down the hill; down Graham Street, and see what we can spot as we walk.  Do you recognise any of those vegetables?  They look so fresh and of good quality, don’t they?

I’m not sure what I’d do with a “salted” duck egg though, are you?

The street is bustling with morning shoppers and the produce looks remarkably good, doesn’t it?

In no time at all we’re back on Queens Road though.  I know Li Yuen Street is around here somewhere, and Pottinger Street too, where I might find some thread to make the scarf.

Oh, and what were you looking for, Jane?

Here we are, stalls selling thread, buttons, ribbon and so on.  I’ll get a reel of black cotton.

Up and down the steps is pretty tiring, isn’t it?  But if you’re ok with it, would you mind if I popped in here?  I’ve read about this place, might have a coupon in my bag back at the hotel, even.

But actually, it’s nothing much.  Mostly imported American things and nothing I couldn’t buy at home.  Never mind.

Let’s carry on and make our way over the bridges towards the pier and catch the Star Ferry back over to Kowloon, shall we?

You know, I don’t remember it being quite so far from here to the water.  I wonder if there’s been a bit of land reclamation going on?

When we are at home, I’ll take a look at some of our old photographs and see where the HSBC and the Mandarin Oriental hotel are in relation to the pier. 

OK, come on, we need Pier 7 and our Octopus cards again.

Swipe the card through the blue gate and we’re in.  Of course, one is boarding right now – they are so frequent, we won’t have to wait a minute.

No sooner are we on than we’ll be away.  Hold tight!

Look over there.  See our hotel?  No, not the very tallest one but the smaller one alongside. 

That’s where we are headed, by the clock tower.  Forgive my hero and I a little momentary reminisce as we recall the time when we stood there, watching the last Governor, Chris Patten and his family arrive in 1992.  Our boy was just seven then, and was thrilled to be witnessing a piece of history that afternoon, as were we.

And, of course, we shared “the thought”.

Approaching the Ocean Terminal, a cruise ship is there – the Silver Whisper.  I think Ellis and Mary’s friends were aboard that one when it arrived yesterday.  I wonder if our lovely Voyager will be in that spot in a couple of days?

Here we are then, back in Kowloon.  We’ve to be at Pete’s tailors at 3pm for our fitting, so there is time to nip into Shanghai Tang for a little look around, I think. 

Oh look, there’s a bride and her bridesmaids, having photos taken.  Don’t they look cute!

OK, here we are, almost at Pete’s.  I wonder if my dresses are going to be ok?

Well, this one certainly does, wouldn’t you agree?  Very good copy of the original and so carefully cut and stitched.  Sit yourself down on the sofa whilst the tailor makes a few adjustments, will you, please?  He’s going to finish the neckline to the single stitching line he says, and will top stitch the double line exactly as the original.  Gorgeous colour, I’m very happy with my choice.

OK, he’ll bring the finished dresses to the hotel tomorrow – I ordered a purple one too, to be made exactly the same.  Good man!

I have just one last piece of shopping to do if that’s ok?  Want to come into the camera shop with me, to look for a spare battery for my “big” camera?    There’s a Nikon and Canon sign just up there, let’s go.

Hmm.  Interesting.  I looked on the internet last night to get a feel of the price at home and found they cost around £13.  The first price this chap quoted me was HK$225 which is way more.  Let’s leave it.

Of course, he won’t let that one go, and offers to match the price eventually, so we buy it after all.  But one thing is clear – the days of finding a bargain here are gone.  The prices are much the same as in Europe and it seems as though they are no cheaper than the US either.  Anyway, I’ve now got a spare battery for both of my cameras, so I’m happy.

Are you?

But I think it’s time we were heading back now, isn’t it?  Especially if we’re going to the Night Market after dinner this evening.  Shall we get the MTR?  Get your Octopus card out then and hop on a train for “Central”, where we can change to the orange line which goes to Kowloon station.

We won’t have to wait long for a train, thank goodness.  I’m feeling pretty weary.

I rather like the metal seats on the trains, don’t you?  They look very clean, I think.

A short walk back through the shopping centre and we are back at the hotel.  Jane and Allan beat us to it and are probably taking a nap right now.

What a good idea that could be!

14 years on

We are back in Hong Kong.

The TurboJet brought us over choppy waters from Macau and as we turned the corner, the city came into view.  Before the handover, this was somewhere that featured on several of our itineraries, being the stopover of choice on any trip downunder.  In those days, we’d be able to peer into the apartments of Mong Kok as the plane came into land at the old Kai Tak airport.  A couple of days ago, the final approach to the new airport was equally spectacular but with none of that nail biting thrill and adrenalin rush (?terror?!) but it was even better to see the spectacular harbour from ground level this morning.

Our spacious and very stylish room here in Kowloon overlooks the harbour too, and as I sit here typing, my eyes are drawn to the illuminated skyscrapers on the island opposite

Not a bad view to get a sense of place, is it?

This hotel is furnished in a more contemporary style than the previous one, and the foyer art is definitely in keeping.  No china dresses here, but instead a rather peculiar and eclectic set of chandeliers which I have yet to work out.

This afternoon, we took a walk along Nathan Road, which hasn’t changed much in the years since we were here.  No sooner had I mentioned the old “copy watch” sellers than someone approached us and muttered “Copy Watch?” in my hero’s ear!  He then said “Copy Handbag?” to me, but we were not at all interested in either.

We were headed for Pete’s, where Allan was going to chat about having some tailoring done and I wanted to explore the possibility of getting a favourite dress copied.  When my dressing room was built, it took some time to sort out a UV-protecting blind for the skylight and in the intervening sunny days, one shoulder of my favourite pink linen dress faded in the light.  Would they – could they – make me another?

Well, yes they could, as a matter of fact and whilst they were about it, they could make two – a purple one and a pink one.

So, leaving them to get on with it (fitting tomorrow…they don’t have much time) we returned to our hotel, admiring the New Year decoration as we went, sponsored by Liberty of London.  Returning from dinner this evening, I looked again at the “temari ball”

Hmmm.  I think it would be kindest to describe it as “freestyle”.

So good to be here, we are looking forward to spending a couple of days pottering about, revisiting old haunts and discovering new ones.  Hope you’re happy to walk with us, too?  Get the comfy shoes out ready!!

On the other side

We felt we’ve seen what there is to see in the old part of the city, so decided to venture over to Taipa this morning.  Formerly a village and rather rural area, it’s now the site of a great deal of development on reclaimed land and unsurprisingly, quite a few very large casinos.

We’d taken the recommendation offered to us by several people, to get tickets for a performance of the House of Dancing Water show. The theatre for this was also in that part of the city early this evening, so the day had more or less planned itself by the time we set out this morning.

Our first stop was the little row of pale green houses, now the Taipa Houses Museum.  Although they were interesting, they didn’t keep us very long. The first had been left as furnished in the style of the time, “as if the family had just stepped out”.  The second, above, was used for a display of costumes and traditional dress and was probably the least interesting of the three. 

The third held an exhibition of postage stamps and first day covers with some information about the artist whose designs have frequently featured on them.  We’d noticed a great deal of interest in things philatelic and it was good to see this colourful exhibition of charming watercolours so well displayed.

Outside, there was a kind of lake between where we stood and the new “Cotai Strip” casinos and hotels.  Formerly this had been the coastline, as we were able to see from photographs of the original houses.  Now it was a small park and we strolled through the trees hoping that at some point, the way around the lake would become clear.  We were headed for the terracotta block in the photograph, actually “The Venetian” hotel and casino, where we thought we might spend an interesting hour or two.

As it happened, we were more or less led by the hand there, because just on the edge of the park was a moving walkway to whisk us the half mile or so to the Cotai Strip and a few steps away from the Venetian.  We smiled as we got close enough to see the detail in these themed buildings…how strange is this?

 

Outside the hotel was chaos in the form of a bus terminus with shuttles taking people all over the place.  Long queues stretched from door to bus stop, a complex queuing system was in place and it appeared that most of the population of China was there, not only waiting for a bus but shouting to their friends to tell them about it too.

OK, slight exaggeration, maybe only half of the population of China seemed to be there at the bus stop, because it seemed as though the other half was inside.

This was an enormous place with miles and miles of corridors. Anyone who has been to Las Vegas will recognise the layout, though our guidebook claims this Venetian is three times larger than the Vegas one.  Who am I to doubt that fact?

We followed the signs to St Mark’s Square, where sure enough, the “sky” cleared and we found ourselves in a kind of fantasy.

When the gondola sailed past, that was confirmed (though we spotted the accelerator pedal under the gondolier’s foot and the little propeller underneath.  We weren’t fooled by that oar he was holding!)

We stopped for a drink in the square, pottered around the “streets” and up and down escalators and moving walkways until we had had enough of the noise, the smoky atmosphere in some areas and the general hubbub. Quite how to escape was a challenge, because the place was so huge, but we headed towards the door we’d come in and somehow managed to navigate our way out again.

There were so many of these vast walkways, lavishly decorated and spotlessly clean, but ultimately, overwhelming.  All we wanted was to sit down in some peace and quiet and gather our thoughts.

We found that place in the quiet of the Hyatt hotel lobby, though no sooner had we sat down than the pianist and his partner began to play some traditional Chinese music.  Not altogether the most relaxing or soothing of music, but hey, we had a pot of tea and a pastel de nata to be going on with!

Time to make our way to the Water show then, and better still, to meet Ellis and Mary, our friends who will travel with us for the next three weeks!  They’re staying in Hong Kong and came over to Macau today for the show.  How good it was to see them again, to catch up on their news and celebrate the reunion of the “splendid six” – Trivia team extraordinaire!

The show was every bit as good as we’d hoped, if not better.  Spectacular trapeze, diving, swimming and acrobatics both in and out of the water, we loved it.

There was clever use of water, both in the form of fountains and jets as well as the central pool appearing and disappearing as the levels changed throughout the show.  We had terrific seats with a great view of everything – we didn’t miss a single trick!

After the show, Ellis and Mary returned to Hong Kong on the Turbo Jet and we headed for the Chinese restaurant where we’d booked a table earlier in the day.  We’ll all meet up again on Tuesday, but for now, we went our separate ways and Allan, Jane and the two of us enjoyed one of the best Chinese meals we can remember – boy, were we hungry!

That will wrap Macau up for us, then, because tomorrow morning we’ll head back to the ferry terminal and make our way to Hong Kong for a few days before joining our ship on Wednesday.  We’ve loved our time here and have been so happy and comfortable in our lovely, casino-free hotel!  For now, though, all that remains for me to do is to pack my bags again.

See you in Hong Kong tomorrow.

The China Dress

The life sized artwork which stands by the lifts in the hotel foyer is a real talking point.  I love it.

Have a closer look.

The “head” – or is it an elaborate hairstyle? – is absolutely in proportion and crowns an elegant form.  I especially love the collar and shoulder shape.

From the side, it’s easier to appreciate the curves and smooth shapes which have been achieved from these very solid and unyielding fragments.

The whole thing is fitted around a metal armature, the pieces “stitched” together with metal wire or staples.

The pattern and form have been so cleverly managed using the pieces available.

Interest and texture is added with more dimensional pieces down the back.

There are small features elsewhere on the dress, too, making best use of the bases, each with a makers mark.

The hem is nicely finished with the deepest blue border, giving weight and balance to the overall figure.

If only it would fit in my suitcase.

Marvellous Macau

I knew, the minute I caught sight of such colour as we stepped out into Largo do Senado – the square in the centre of the city – that we were going to enjoy our day.

The decorations from the Lunar New Year were still hanging and the contrast between the bright reds, pinks and gold against the blue and white colonial era tiles was lovely.

A rather larger installation was there in the square, around the fountain and then around a temporary stage, too.

I tried to work out how these figures were constructed, but there’s lots to see, so had to hurry along.  I’m thinking bamboo/cane framework with thin fabric covering – very clever construction.

The Portuguese heritage is plain to see.  Black and white tiled pavements, colonial style buildings with arcades, and a little later…

Pasteis de Nata!!

We admired the fine decoration on the facade of St Dominic’s church as we passed by

and peered through the old residential buildings to the towering “Grand Lisboa” hotel and casino.  We’d seen this unmistakeable structure last night as we’d arrived, colourfully floodlit and looking rather gaudy alongside rather more tastefully decorated buildings in the same area.  Now, wherever we were, it loomed large, overpowering everything around it.

 

Another collection of tiled panels in the Portuguese style

right opposite a very Chinese feature in the same street.  This is such an interesting place!

See what I mean about “distinctive shape” of the Grand Lisboa?

Our next stop was the cathedral, rather plainer than St Dominic’s from the outside at least.

 

Inside was fairly simple too, reminding us of the churches we’d seen in Cochin.  Simple, cool decor and a haven of peace in a busy city.

Outside, things were waking up and shops were opening for business.

Though some of the closed shutters were equally interesting.

Never far away…

We were climbing up a steep street by now, heading towards the Monte Fort, beneath which a banyan tree with an interesting collection of offerings stood.

Once we reached the walled fort, we took a breather and watched the ladies work on their Tai Chi and others posing for photographs.  Though there seem to be quite a few local tourists here, there are fewer Europeans and Americans and we are very much in the minority.

Though it was quite hazy, the view from the fort was interesting and we enjoyed a leisurely stroll around before making our way into the museum.

In here was a fine collection of historical artefacts and interesting displays of Maccanese everyday life in more recent times.

For some reason, this knight struck me as being rather cute

and I wondered how many pieces of china I’d need to make a dress!  (Dorothy, I haven’t forgotten and have taken some better pictures of the hotel art this morning…to follow!)

The various reconstructions of rooms and shop houses were so well done but insufficiently lit to give a good impression, I fear.  I especially liked the display of street sellers, each with a distinctive call to announce their arrival.  The small fisherman’s display was well done too, with a soundtrack of music to accompany a short narrative.  Very atmospheric and so attractive.

My main problem was that much of the display was behind glass, with lighting set in such a way that reflections made photography a challenge.  These puppets caught my eye immediately,

as did the small display of household objects.

Having climbed the steep hill and some further steps to reach the fort and the museum, we were amused to discover an escalator to take us down the other side of the hill, to the ruined St Paul’s church – another “must see” according to our guidebook. 

Just the facade still stands, reminiscent of the library at Ephesus, we thought!  It was a busy spot and popular location for photography, virtually impossible to negotiate a path through without being caught in someone’s picture, I think, and therefore equally impossible to take a photo without some stranger in there too!

Down the steps then, to browse the shops on the way back, turning around first, however, to see

where we’d just been.

Here were many bakeries, selling not only Pasteis de Nata, but also varieties of a kind of pressed meat, chopped into squares with scissors and freely handed out for sampling.  I stuck to the custard tart but my hero was brave enough to give the pressed meat a try and declared it a resounding “ok”.

Retracing our steps back through the Largo Do Senada, we thought that we’d take a look at the building which seemed to have followed us around all day, like the eyes of a portrait in a gallery; the Grand Lisboa was just along the street and according to the guidebook, was worth a visit.  The tiled wall of the Portuguese High School looked lovely in the afternoon sunshine and I stopped a moment to admire it.

What could be attracting so much interest in the lobby here in the Grand Lisboa, though?  A closer look revealed the contents of that cylindrical showcase: The largest cushion-cut diamond in the world.  OK.  It’s pretty big.  It’s a diamond.

Moving right along.

The exhibits in glass cases all over the lobby attracted similar interest, including huge jade pieces, gold dragon boats and carved tusks of immense proportions. A degree of cultural difference here, because though we were able to admire the craftmanship required to create such pieces, the actual aesthetic didn’t really appeal.

A short walk beyond the Grand Lisboa lobby was the original Lisboa Hotel and Casino, which our guidebook described as worth a visit.  Very different in style and atmosphere, this was the older, traditional place alongside the younger, flashier newcomer.  We took the guidebook’s advice and ventured into the casino itself, watching as a couple of men played Baccarat and trying to work out for ourselves what was really going on.  Who was losing?  Who was winning?  How much?  The circular casino was teeming with people – mostly men, almost all Chinese in appearance and business appeared to be going well. 

Just outside the casino itself, business of a different kind was going on, too.  Being the naive sort, it took a while and a couple of nudges from Jane before I realised that the very thin young women wearing rather a lot of makeup and extremely short skirts were not actually going very far at all, but were simply walking up and down a short stretch of this corridor.  Hmmm.  Obvious once the penny dropped, and then oddly fascinating and disconcerting at the same time.

 

Once outside the Lisboa, we could see the two contrasting structures alongside one another and appreciate what a landmark they are in the city.  At the same time, we caught sight of our own hotel, just down the road and our feet felt suddenly the worse for wear!

Stopping for a short while in Wynn’s hotel and casino to explore the contrasting atmosphere with the Lisboa (Wynn’s being altogether quieter, more elegant and more pleasant a place, though vast in scale), we strolled back along the Avenida to spend an hour or two with our feet up in the cool of our gorgeous hotel room.

We’ve had a great day and have found so much to interest us here.  The temperature is very comfortable and the pace relaxed.   Macau is so much more than the casinos, for sure!