Oh, Osaka

We were watching a cocktail making demonstration when someone pointed out that we were arriving in Osaka.

Though Lillia tried her best to keep our attention with her Bellinis, Bloody Marys and Brandy Alexanders, the scene unfolding outside was just too distracting!

Anyway, it looked like there was a welcome party going on just over there on the quayside.  Let’s go and take a look.

Oh my goodness, the Osaka Junior Band is out to welcome us, playing a selection of jolly tunes to which these dear little girls are dancing.  But it’s freezing cold out there, there’s a chill wind blowing and everyone looks, to use an expression from my childhood, nithered.

But they played on, waving and smiling and of course, we responded.  What  a lovely welcome to the city!  But oh my, what a change in the weather from yesterday.

The string men were there and in no time at all, we were berthed and ready to go!  Having completed all the Japanese Immigration procedures at Hiroshima, we were all set  My hero and I were going it alone in Osaka and we were already on our starting blocks.

Just fifteen minutes after we’d secured and the gangplank was lowered, we were standing on the station!

Though we’d not been here before and the Japanese restrictions on internet connections meant we’d not been able to research the journey fully, it felt as though we were on familiar territory.

The ticket machine flummoxed us initially, but we sought help from the station master who graciously processed two one-day Eco tickets at Y600 each for us, gave us a map and bowed as we thanked him profusely.

My hero soon worked out where we needed to go – the numbered stations make plotting a route very easy and he’d got it sorted in no time.

We were down on the platform, listening to the tinkly chimes of the subway station signals and pinched ourselves to check that yes, we really were here!

What’s more, our train was arriving!  Can you believe that shortly before 12.30 we’d still been on the ship?

I was so excited that we got off the train a stop too soon!!  Oh no!  As we stood, map in hand, trying to work out why there was no red connection here, only a pink one, we heard a soft voice behind us,

“How may I help you?”

The Station Master was there with his guidebooks and timetables, ready, willing and able to offer us assistance, when actually, we’d just realised what we had done.   More profuse thanks…more bowing and smiling…and then the slow realisation that I could run and get a station stamp from Awaza station, since we were here…

With a seven minute frequency on this line, even on a Sunday, we didn’t have long to wait.

The super clean and efficient subway train arrived, clearly having come through a rainstorm and as we stood admiring the varied lengths of the hanging straps which would cater for all heights and sizes…how sensible is that…we also realised that we had no umbrellas with us.

First stop, then, having reached our destination, was to stop by the 7-11 for a grocery store umbrella each.  We’ve done this before and really, these umbrellas are amazing.  Intended to be semi-disposable, nevertheless we’re still using those from a previous visit at home.  At Y500  (about £3.50) each they are a bargain!

Come on then, let’s get out onto the street!  We were heading for Loft, one of my favourite stores and though we had the location clearly marked on a map, locating the route wasn’t easy in the station passages, where it’s so difficult to maintain one’s bearings.  Even my hero was finding it a challenge, so we decided to put out heads outside and walk in the rain, on the street.  Much easier then, to see what was where and where we were.

Don’t you love the Japanese zebra crossing?  Not quite Shibuya, but the same principle..all cross in every direction at the same time.

What’s so special about Loft?  Well, it’s a blend of house/home store but with great crafts and stationery.  Oh yes, right up my alley (and yes, my hero indulges me here)

Up to the sixth floor and oh, be still my beating heart.  There’s a floor full of my kind of things!

This is a small section of the Washi tape department.  Yes, a small section!  And for those who “know” about such things, let me explain that the MT tapes have a department all of their own.  The Washi tapes alone are displayed in a section about the same size as the breakfast cereals in my local supermarket.  Hmmm.

After a while, I make my purchases and we move on, firstly back to the station, where we’re going to hop on another subway line to go to Doguyasuji Street, where the foodie/kitcheny shops are.  It’s the first time I’ve noticed the “Women only boarding points” and I think what a good idea they are.  Each of the stations in the city centre has half a dozen or so clearly marked sections, nearest the entrance/exit.

When we get to Namba Station, we decided to get a drink from a vending machine, except this wasn’t a vending machine at all but a normal, everyday kiosk.  As my hero is making the purchase, I spot the familiar book covers up there on sale in the kiosk too – recognise them?

 

Suitably refreshed, we walk through the “Namba Walk” area to Doguyasuji, where there’s plenty going on this Sunday afternoon.

First, though, let’s admire the manhole covers, shall we?

It always amuses me though, that such details are well considered and rather beautiful and yet the street scene here in Japan is always uncharacteristically untidy.  Can you see the young woman in her “cos” of short froufrou dress and cutsie styling?  She’s advertising an electronics store down the road in the style of Tokyo’s Akihabara district.  I’d like to take a closer photograph of her but don’t feel I can…so we walk right on by.

Turning into Doguyasuji street proper, the first shop is selling the cafe curtains, aprons and tablelinens we admire.  I’ve often thought about hanging one of these divided linen curtains over the top, open half of our kitchen door in the summer and once again, I’m regretting having no measurements with me.  There are some striking designs here, not all with Japanese script on them.  ever mind…we’ll keep moving!

 

The next store has crockery…

and the next, lanterns.  This is such a fascinating street and one I’d have loved to have lingered in.  Next time, perhaps.

The arcade-style street opened up into a wider square, where there was some commotion going on.  Some cartoon characters were there and we realised that it’s a theatre or TV studio set up.  A chap approached my hero and introduced himself with his catchphrase “goooooey—gooooooeeey—gooooey!”   After a brief discussion about British comedians (he hadn’t heard of any of those we mentioned) we left him to raise some cheers amongst the crowds and bade him farewell with a very British and polite “Gooooeey-goooooeeey-gooooeeey”!

The characters themselves were enormous and I was rather surprised that the children were ok about approaching them.

They clearly have a popular following!

We were tiring by now, but still enjoying being here.  We made our way back through the Pachinko parlours and the little restaurants to the station.  Just one stop and we’d be in the other of my destination shops.  Tokyu Hands.

We did sneak into Bic Camera on the way though, to get another SD card for my camera.  Good prices, excellent service and another awe-inspiring shopping stop.  The wealth of choice, the level of stock and the abundance of new and up to the minute models of every technological gadget and gizmo imaginable makes this a truly fascinating place.

We did make an half hour stop in Tokyu Hands, though both agreed that perhaps, in this part of Osaka at least, Loft might have the edge.  So, although I found a few different bits and pieces (which will be revealed in due course), really, there wasn’t that much new.  For sure we were tired, it was getting late and we might even have been feeling a little hungry.  Now, that’s an unusual feeling around here

We took the subway back to Osakaka Station and walked back along the little street towards home.  There, at the end, was Voyager and a comfy pair of slippers!

Paper Cranes

As we left the Museum in Hiroshima, Masa gave each of us a personal gift from his family – a paper crane, made by his wife and daughter.

Bearing in mind the significance of the paper crane in Hiroshima, this was a sweet and very thoughtful gift.  The story of Sadako wasn’t familiar to us all but the sight of the large rainbow chains of cranes inspired several of us to make them ourselves.

Fortunately, the gift shop in the Hiroshima Museum sold packs of paper.  And though I have made paper cranes on many previous occasions, needless to say, I couldn’t immediately remember the folding steps.

I bought a little charm as a souvenir and remembered the time Tetsu taught Edward and I how to fold a crane.  It’s one of those things which Japanese students take with them, carrying a pack of paper when they travel and using the origami fold to chat and make international friends.

Sadly, the little instruction sheet in the pack of papers I bought wasn’t for a crane, though, but for a little folded bowl.  Though I’d had lessons not only from Tetsu, but also at Tokyo Airport, whilst waiting for a flight, too.  How many times do I need to be shown this thing?  What kind of a learner am I?

How on earth am I going to remember how to make a paper crane, especially when we don’t have any internet here in Japanese waters?

Hooray!  I was thrilled to discover that the little plastic bag containing the origami paper and phone charm also contained a separate sheet of instructions!  Thank goodness…

In no time at all, it came back to me.  Maybe I’m not such a poor learner after all and simply needed the aide memoire.  I’m not sure I’ll make a thousand though!  Nevertheless, they were a charming souvenir of a lovely day and a sweet little gift to leave with a note to a couple of people who made last evening very special for us, too.

The “shrink scenery” garden

Our next stop was at the Shukkeien Garden.  This was a highlight of the tour, because of the amazing Spring weather we were enjoying.  Masa quickly ushered us across the road and into the garden, doing his best to stay ahead of the pack.

Throughout the morning he’d shown interest in my new camera – Japanese made of course – and he was quick to spot potential and to give me a nudge.  Good man!

The garden – first laid out in 1620, imagine that! - is set around a pond and follows the concept of miniaturising many scenic views.  Tradition demanded that it was modelled on Xihu, in Hangzhou, China and the pathway which leads one around the features gives gardens of this type the name “circular tour garden”.

Some of the finer trees were still wrapped up in their protective winter coats and the office blocks in the background gave the game away whenever one forgot about the world outside, for this would have been a peaceful and serene place had it not been for loads of pesky tourists galumphing around.

Of course, the garden was destroyed by the A-bomb, but careful restoration following the original plans mean that we can see it exactly as was intended.

The semi circular Koko-kyo bridge in the centre proved too much of a temptation to Mary and I, who both wanted to pose on the top of it for our heroes, who wielded the cameras.  But it was indeed slippery and we did need to take care.  Neither of us were too keen on making the splash of the day!

Of course, the plum blossom was a highlight and was just opening in the sunshine.  Another week or so and it will be at its best, if the weather continues like this.

The white blossom in particular had a heady scent and Masa said what an unusual day it was, “May in March”, he thought.

Of course, we were not the only ones visiting the garden and these two young women were enjoying taking pictures of each other, posing in the Japanese style with kooky expressions and little waves of the hand.  We smiled, greeted one another with a Konnichiwa and I said how kawaii  (cute) they were (not having the Japanese for “beautiful”)  But that seemed to hit the spot…kawaii  was indeed the intended impression and both bowed effusively and thanked me for the compliment!  (I had been a little anxious that they would have been insulted!)

The next scene was most certainly more beautiful than cute.  A shy bride was being photographed with her handsome husband and not only did she have the photo-team on hand, it appeared the world of tourism wanted her photograph too!

I can only hope the professional photographer was able to avoid the baseball caps in the background.

Don’t they look lovely?

Masa was looking closely at his watch though, and thought it was time we were off.  We’d been lucky to see the garden in such glorious weather and felt delighted to leave Hiroshima on such a high.

Though we weren’t quite done yet!  On our return to the ship, we were greeted by smiling faces and “Hiroshima Delight” cocktails: Midori, tequila and goodness knows what else, but altogether delicious!  There was to be a ceremony in the theatre and we were keen to watch.

The chef was preparing sushi and sashimi, there were marvellous decorations and the scene was set for a celebration, for sure.

This was the ship’s first call at Hiroshima in nine years and the occasion was to be marked by the tapping of a cask of locally made sake in a traditional Kagamawari ceremony.

There were speeches, an exchange of gifts and eventually, the seal on the sake was broken.

Toasts were made and the first kampai (cheers!) called, as the General Manager drank the fresh sake from what looked like a wooden box.

Fortunately there was plenty for us all to share.

Kampai! Hiroshima.  What a delightful time we’ve spent here.  Such a warm welcome from everyone we encountered and an experience which we’ll remember fondly.

This afternoon, we’ll set sail through the Inland Sea for Osaka.  I’m going to use the time to make a little something for our friends, who are joining us for cocktails this evening.  I’ll explain later.

The Peace Park

We opened the curtains to find Hiroshima outside this morning.  We had an early start, because the immigration officials were starting work at 7am and we needed to present ourselves in person with our passport when called.  So, we settled at a table and no sooner started breakfast than heard our details called.  Off we went, leaving a half finished breakfast behind with every intention of finishing it.  Oh my, what a task our friends had convincing everyone that yes, we were coming back and no, please don’t take it away!  (Except that, of course, when we resumed our breakfast, they quietly substituted almost everything with an identical plate of fresh food…such incredible service)

So, what did I know about Hiroshima, apart from the obvious?  Well, not a lot, actually.  This was new ground for us and we were eager to see what there is to see here – and yet, I was a little wary.  After all, visiting places such as this is not something to take lightly and although I wanted to come here, felt I ought to visit and learn about the events referred to here as “the devastation”, nevertheless a small part of me wanted to stay in the garden with the blossom and green trees. 

The drive was through a place like any other Japanese city, though.  People cycling along, cute little signs for crossing places and wires everywhere.

Outside the little playgroup, the man was making a delivery in his small, positively cute little van.  He was dressed in overalls and wore a face mask, maybe because of an allergy to the pollen which is rather high here right now.  Or perhaps he had a cold and didn’t want to spread it around?  Just inside the door is a shoe rack and everyone’s outdoor shoes are there, neatly placed and there’s a little cartoon character on the door welcoming visitors.  All is the space of a normal domestic garage.

Along the road, three little girls hurry along behind their Mummy, running to a dance class maybe, or a party?  So cute and pretty!

One feature of Hiroshima is the streetcar and these were creating a little traffic jam right there at the central crossroads.  Our guide, Masa, said that his wife and daughter don’t have the patience to take this route because of them.  We were to learn later that these streetcars were up and running again just three days after the bomb fell and as such, are a symbol of the recovery efforts.

We parked right opposite the dome and by the bridge where the bomb exploded 600m above the ground.  Nearly everything within 2km of the centre was destroyed and thousands of lives were lost as a result.

Now, it’s a serene riverside scene and the sunshine and blue sky added to the sense of peace.  We strolled around, following Masa, taking it all in and capturing the small details with our cameras.

The camellia hedge brightened the scene and brought colour into what could have been a bleak place.

And the street cleaners taking their break were a good reminder the life goes on as normal here.  Though the place itself is a tribute to the devastation, it’s neither gloomy nor maudlin, but respectful and enlightening, rather.

The dome and the structure beneath is is in constant repair to maintain it exactly as it is for the future.  Small cracks are filled with polymers to prevent it crumbling away.

One symbol is everywhere – the origami cranes.

These were hung at the memorial to the Korean people who were working in Hiroshima at the time and also died as a result.

But the real paper crane centre was by the memorial to Sadako, the small girl who began the tradition of folding the cranes for peace.

It’s a serious business here and there was a whole procedure to follow when bringing large numbers of the origami figures to donate.

We’d just walked past the reflecting pool with the upturned hands and the burning flame, when we encountered some other visitors to the memorial.

These small children were visiting with their teachers, bringing armfuls of folded cranes to donate as their contribution to the campaign for peace.  They were beautifully dressed in identical smocks, red caps and stood at their teachers instruction to bid us “konnichiwa” and “Good Morning”.

Into the Museum then, where there were graphic displays of the events themselves, the aftermath and the hope for the future.  Here is the wall size photograph of the devastation.

I’ll admit, I found some parts hard to read, so moving were they.

I lingered in some places, moved quickly through others.  Particularly the human stories make for difficult reading.

There were plenty of these cheerful and very well spoken volunteers around to answer questions and clarify information in the clearest of English.  They had up to date information about nuclear weaponry and statistics and were keen to share it.

The exhibit about Sadako was touching, if a little sentimental, understandably and by the time I reached it the little schoolgroup were there.  I imagine they hear all about Sadako and her battle with leukaemia when they are folding the cranes.

Last of all was a short corridor of desks.  Desks where one might sign a petition against nuclear weapons.  Desks where one could read the Peace Declaration dated August 2012, issued as a result of the tsunami and resultant nuclear power plant accident.  Finally, a desk to complete a feedback form, which with typical Japanese modesty offers merely “satisfactory” as the highest grade. 

We completed what we felt we had to complete, in my case offering the highest grade throughout.  It had been a very thoughtprovoking visit and I am very pleased indeed that I have had the chance to come here.

On to the garden…in the next post.

Zhujiajiao, the water town

An early start this morning, so we were up with the lark and popped our noses out on the verandah to see what the weather was like.  Not bad.  Not as nice as yesterday but fairly mild and dry.  I thought I could see a couple of helicopters hovering above the city, so got my camera out to take a look.

Actually, they were flying kites from the Bund, so we zoomed in for a better shot.

Oh, and then I turned around and looked in the other direction!  Yes, this photo really was taken at the very same time as the kite one and from the very same spot, too.

Anyway, after a spot of breakfast, we gathered our things (and our people!) and met in the Theatre to await further instruction.  In no time at all we were boarding our bus and off to Zhujiajiao, just over an hour’s drive away.

I’m sorry that this is such a horrible picture but I wanted to share one of the Shanghai ring road signs, with traffic updates there on the sign itself.  The bright green is an illuminated indicator of the density and speed of the traffic on this, one of the busiest roads.  I’ve not seen this elsewhere and thought it pretty useful for a driver to see immediately where the trouble spots might be.

Actually, the motorways were otherwise much the same as everywhere else in the world, wouldn’t you say?

As we drove, we passed new, modern developments of what our guide referred to as “villas”. 

Everywhere we go, there is building.  And more building.  This was on the outskirts of Zhujiajiao, which is probably within commuting distance from Shanghai, but more likely, of one of the outlying suburbs which seem equally popular.

Anyway, shortly afterwards, the twenty or so of us were dropped off at the entrance to the town, stepped through the gateway and look.  Isn’t that lovely?

Well, yes, this is a touristy kind of place, but also somewhere that real people live and work, so rather than focus on the touristy stuff, it was good to observe the inhabitants for a while.

It’s noted for the “gondolas” on the river too, and we looked forward to a trip later.  But for now, we were going to walk through the town a while.

Yes, the bedding was out in the fresh air, hanging all over the place as always.

This man was rinsing some fish in the stream – though looking at it, I wonder if the fish came out and cleaner after being in the water, which didn’t look too clean to us.

We smiled at the New Year “firecrackers” with the CocaCola logo all over them.  Oh yes, here we are!

The end of this particular path offered a far more interesting view however.  We just couldn’t stop taking photos.

A little along the next street, we passed several food stalls, each selling virtually the same things – little packages of chicken and rice, wrapped in leaves and tied with grass.

Some smelled pleasantly savoury, others a little less appetising.

And no one fancied chicken or duck right now!

The old buildings were so photogenic though and the red lanterns shone in the sunshine.  Really lovely.

It was good, too, that no one really bothered us, but continued their day enjoying the sunshine as much as we were.

The old bridges were beautiful and by one of them, the oldest, an old woman was selling live fish.  This was not to eat or to feed to pets but to set free…like the little birds in cages, to win a little karma from the Gods.

On this side of the river, the shops were more touristy in theme.  Buy a comb, a plastic toy, a silk cushion cover or “hand” embroidery…or…

two wooden rice spoons!  Far more useful!

.

We were making our way back towards the old Post Office and the Apothecary’s shop

The Apothecary’s was dark and none to interesting, we thought, but the post office rather more lively.

I posted a card home.

I then went upstairs to look at the wonderful historic postcards on display.  Once more, I smiled at the little English translation “Old garden has experienced many vicissitudes”.

Walking past the vegetables drying in the sun, we’d arrived at our boat stop.

Six to the boat; perfect for our party and the gentleman with the oar did a grand job of transporting us back to the bus stop in super quick time.

 

Along the way, we caught more, lovely glimspes of life in Zhujiajiao and were thrilled to be here.

This was a busy thoroughfare though and our driver needed to concentrate!

Making friends along the way is all part of the fun and we were rather sorry our trip was over so soon.

But leave we must.  Our ship was due to sail from Shanghai at 1.30pm and we needed to be back on board. 

We’ve loved our time in the city and have overwritten all the less successful experiences from our previous trip.  We feel we have seen so much and have been truly blessed with marvellous weather, too.

At 1.30pm precisely, we reversed out of the berth and a short way downstream before making a 360 degree turn and sailing away.  Goodbye Shanghai, I am sure we will be back.

We are now on our way to Hiroshima and will arrive tomorrow morning (Saturday).  As we enter Japanese water this afternoon, the communications will disappear once again, so we’ll be quiet for a few days.  Don’t worry though, we’ll still be having fun and I’ll have plenty of stories to tell when we’re back in touch.

See you later!