…and back again

On such a beautiful day, it was hard to think of a reason for taking the T back downtown.  The fresh air and easy walk would be so much better for us, we thought.

After all, there was hardly any traffic – this is around midday on Monday, on what I’d have thought was one of the busier roads in the city.

Anyway, we can spot all kinds of interesting things on foot.

Walking in the opposite direction means that we view a different perspective.  Though we’ve seen (and photographed) the Symphony Hall several times, I’m not sure I’ve taken much notice of the grand Horticultural Society building opposite.

The Prudential Center is a little busier now, with lunchtime shoppers and tourists like ourselves taking advantage of the last bargains.  We head straight through on our way to Newbury Street.

Newbury is a fine avenue of brownstone houses, most of which have been turned into small shops.  There are basements in these houses, so there’s sometimes a small shop downstairs and another one on the raised ground floor, accessed by a flight of stairs.  When we first started coming to Boston some years ago, these stores were rather exclusive, upmarket and slightly forbidding.

These days, that is less so.  The “big boys” have moved into the larger premises and the smaller shops are a little more quirky.

There’s even a branch of the “sewing machine” shop, looking exactly like the other branches we’ve seen here and there.

But we spot Harry and David down there next door so pop inside to take advantage of a sample or two and buy some of our favourite chocolate covered strawberries.

And thanks, the MooseMunch is delicious!

By the time we get to Boston Common, our feet are getting tired, the sun is starting to go down and it’s getting cold.  It’s time to turn around and head back to the hotel.

Walking slowly back along Boylston Street, we spot other little architectural details, fine features of these grand old buildings, some of which have seen better days.

Though the shopwindow offers are fewer and further between, there’s still the odd one which catches our eye, but we resist.

Putting one weary foot in front of the other, we make our way back.

When we’re almost at the crossing in front of the hotel, I see two familiar faces.

We’re back in time to take a quick look at that lovely gunmetal top in Eileen’s shop window down there.  Except that it isn’t gunmetal but black and it’s $318 with no discounts.

Time to move on.

Finally, the American Wing

The new wing of the MFA was opened just a couple of weeks ago and promised much.  The Museum was already one of those memorable places from previous visits and for us, we needed no further temptation to spend more time here. But this new development raised the bar still higher – this is one of the great museums, both in terms of content and now, style of display.

We loved the space, the airy atmosphere reminiscent of the new wing of the Metropolitan, NYC, and the way the theme was carried through from the items on display to the display itself.  Not only that, here were no secrets: the “behind the scenes” area enlightened us to the methods of curation, conservation and exhibitions.  This was very much our sort of place.

We did as we usually do, start at the top and work down.  In MFA terms, that meant starting with the recent, modern and moving down to the old.  So, one of the first things we saw was this Norman Rockwell painting “New Kids in the Neighbourhood”.  We very much like his work and this one captured our attention from the off.  A great start!

But these galleries delivered on all levels – here a detail from a 1920s hand embroidered bedcover, beautifully displayed with relevant artefacts from the era and with enough information to enlighten without overwhelming us.

Just around the corner was the high tech, the interactive touchscreen table display which amused us for a while since we had it to ourselves.  Quite how this works when the galleries are crammed full of school visits, during the weekends or when someone wishes to make serious use of the facility, I have no idea.  But today, for now, it was great!

Throughout these galleries, the one aspect which never failed to impress us was the design which “framed” the choice exhibit.  In almost every case, the view was one which focused on the special item, the gem of a painting or key sculpture.  So clever.  Above, the scale model for Walker Hancock’s war memorial to the workers of the Pennsylvania Railroad is placed centrally in the view.

Moving on into the room of John Singer Sargent’s work, we were immediately captivated by the powerful portraits, as always.

I love the faces of mother and daughter, so beautifully painted, so contemporary in many ways.

Here were other lovely paintings, each with an amusing detail, a small characteristic expression or two.

I particularly liked the portrait of “Miss L” by William Merritt Chase, her clenched fist firmly on her hip in the stance of “the American girl”, forthright, unpretentious and active.  Quite a contrast to some of the other, more simpering beauties!

Here, too, was the “Behind the Scenes” exhibit, with possibly one of the few old Singer sewing machines to escape the window of an All Saints Spitalfields store!  Here were also a few dilemmas to think about, to consider.

It was these such questions which kept us thinking, talking and considering as we moved through the galleries and a feature which we very much appreciated as an insight into the role of those who have built this new gallery and done such a great job.

Into the next room, then, and I spotted my favourite.  Since the very first time we came to this museum, I have loved Winslow Homer’s boys in a pasture.

I was delighted to see it again in a new home – and googling it just now, I realise that I’m not the only one to love it! 

But there were other treasures too, including this one of a young woman wearing “Spitalfields Silk”, which is interesting when we were there so recently.  There were the salon paintings, hung in the style of a “salon”, with the explanation of how and why the arrangements were worked out.  There were room sets from a couple of local homes of wealthy individuals and several of those stiff, uncompromising family portraits which could tell such a story if only they could talk!

By the time we’d reached the ground floor, it was pretty busy and we were ready to take a break.  Next time, we must start at the bottom and work up!

After a drink and a short sit down, we took a short look at the temporary exhibition of work by SCAASI, couturier and dress designer to the stars, including Barbra Streisand, whose collection took centre stage in the exhibit.

I think this could be the first fashion exhibit I’ve seen where I could truthfully say that there was not one dress/ensemble which I liked in any way!  For sure there was skilful construction, artful embroidery and textile manipulation but for the most part, this was fashion of an era which I didn’t find at all appealing.

Or perhaps I was simply overwhelmed by the riches I’d already seen this morning?

Whatever.  The Boston Museum of Fine Arts remains a favourite place to visit and we agree with all the praise heaped upon the new development, which has made it more memorable than ever.  We loved it.

Walk with us

It’s not really a shopping day today.  Well, would you want to go and pay full price again after a weekend of heavy discounts?  So, join us on our visit to the new American Wing of the Museum of Fine Arts instead.  It’s only just opened a couple of weeks ago, so is still pretty “hot”.

Over the weekend, the hotel has been decorated and we’ll admire the tree as we pass by.  It’s the same one with the same decorations as last time here, so it must be on its third outing.  Still looks ok, though.

Our hotel is connected to the shopping mall by a covered walkway and right at the other end is Au Bon Pain, breakfast place of choice when we are lacking The Red Flame, our favourite breakfast place in NYC.

Not too busy today, we enjoy our apple and cinnamon oatmeal and assorted pastries!

Walking through the mall, we pass by a favourite shop and admire Eileen’s style which suits me very well.  I’ve already relieved her of a couple of things this trip and am sorely tempted by another one.  We’ll see.  Eileen doesn’t discount, so there are seldom bargains to be had.

Next door is Williams Sonoma which isn’t open yet but which looks as lovely as always.  Such choice here.

Finally, in this part of the mall, there’s another chance to look at the Tiffany windows which are beautifully made from printed paper, book pages possibly.

From here, there’s another covered bridge over to the other part of the Mall, the Prudential Center.  So few people here today – over the weekend, this walkway has been heaving with shoppers.

As we look up through the glass roof at the skyscraper beyond, I’m approached by a security guard who smiles sweetly and gently advises me that taking photos of tall buildings isn’t recommended.  I apologise, he smiles again and moves on to advise the next person.

We rather like the oversized decorations in this mall, once again, remembering them from two years ago.

From here, it’s out onto the street and a breath of cold, morning air.  Huntington Avenue is quiet as we walk as briskly as we can under the clear blue sky.

The wind whips round the empty plaza in front of the Christian Science Center

Soon, we’re back at Symphony Hall, where we came on Saturday evening to hear that great concert.

Huntington then opens up and becomes an avenue of Universities and colleges.  Here, the front of Northeastern University – a game of wiffle ball, anyone?

The T – Boston’s subway system – comes up onto the surface around here and runs down the centre of the road.  Walking along here in the sunshine is pleasant and we’re glad we took the exercise rather than ride.

I admire the patterns set into the road to mark pedestrian crossing areas as we pass by.  Every junction along here is marked out like this, some worn away from heavy traffic.

Then, at last, we are here, standing in front of the Museum of Fine Arts.  I love the sculpture which stands outside and on this sunny morning, the pose of the native american horseman was perfect.  We went and sat on the low wall outside the entrance and basked in the sunshine ourselves for five minutes until the doors opened at 10am.

Join me inside the new Art of the Americas wing in my next post!

35 down, 15 to go

US states, that is.

Kerching!

For the record, today we scored Connecticut, which brings my total to 35 states and Mark’s to 34, because of Wisconsin.  The thing is, we have now got all of the “easy” states; the whole of the east and west coasts are complete and there remains just the wide expanse of the mid-west.

The north east corner of Connecticut, where we explored today, is beautifully rural, rolling countryside.  We very much enjoyed a day out from the city and the clear sunny weather showed the area off to best advantage. The names on the signposts were entertaining, too – the sign above was spotted in (another) Brooklyn.

Under a cloudless blue sky

It’s chilly but invigorating.  Just the right weather to be popping in and out of shops.  Perfect.

The thing is, many of them are such a visual feast, that even if no purchases are made, it’s still fun.  Even more so, now the staff in Anthropologie don’t get agitated at the sight of a camera any more.

We love the way the stores here make an effort to spruce up the outside too.

With a folklore theme going on inside, I’m enjoying capturing some images ready for my Christmas journal which I’ll begin in a few days time.

Enjoying a comforting hot drink in Starbucks (will it be salt caramel chocolate or peppermint mocha this time?…yum!) we make one of those chance enounters we love.  The chap standing behind me waiting for our drinks recognises my accent and comes over to Mark to begin a conversation.  We discover he’s a musician on his way to play the matinee of the Nutcracker with the ballet.  When we tell him we’re going to the Symphony this evening, he laughs and says that he also plays with the BSO – he’s a percussionist.  Having discussed the programme, we look forward to seeing him on stage, feeling a connection with the orchestra in the same way we do at Symphony Hall back home.

 

It was a fine concert and we enjoyed it greatly.  Disappointing though, how the audience began to leave almost as soon as the last note had been played.  Andris would have held that magical silent moment so much longer…