Go Pack Go

I know, it could be the theme of our road trip and as soon as I saw it on a T shirt in the window of the Green Bay Packers shop, I knew it’d make a great souvenir.

We know nothing about American Football.  We knew nothing about the Green Bay Packers beyond the story I shared yesterday about Edward’s friend Seb and the year of the Superbowl.  But arriving in the city yesterday afternoon, passing the huge Lambeau Field and noticing almost everyone sporting a Green Bay Packers logo in some form or other (no exaggeration, i promise) we realised that this is an important feature of life in this city.  This morning, we planned a visit to the field to find out more.

The statues in front would soon become known to us.  Vince Lombardi (after whom the road was named) and Curly Lambeau.  Two heroes in Packers history.

As soon as we stepped inside, we knew we were to hear a very special story.

We were very fortunate indeed to be part of Candy’s group.  She was a great guide, full of energy and information.  She explained how the Packers had been started by Curly Lambeau in 1919 and how Vince Lombardi had inspired them to huge success.

She told how the club is owned by its fans – or by the people of the city, which appear to be one and the same group of people, because just as we suspected, everyone here is a Packers supporter.  The picture above shows the walkway between the stadium and the training ground, where each year, a tradition takes place.

As we stood in the stands high above the pitch, we learned how the games have been fully sold out since 1960.  After a rocky few years, the Packers regained their status as one of the major football teams and a visionary President, Bob Harlan extended the stadium and consolidated operations here at Lambeau Field.  The stadium holds 81k spectators and there are 81k season ticket holders (even though there are only 104k inhabitants of Green Bay).

Moving up further, to the very classy seats high above the pitch, we learned they cost $395 per game, but of course, are all sold by season ticket.  An “ordinary” ticket down on the benches costs $129 per match, with the most expensive terrace seats costing $550 per match.  We knew the waiting list was long, but hearing there are 130k names on the list right now came as a surprise.  With just 80 or 90 places becoming available each year, it’s estimated that it will take over 900 years for the last names on the list to get a season ticket!

Good grief.   Season tickets can be passed to close relatives, but not sold on privately.  These are rare and extraordinarily valuable (and, at hundreds of dollars per match, expensive!) commodities.

Whilst we were reeling from such statistics, wondering how on earth the average person ever affords such things  (whilst knowing that there are 81k people who can and do) we continued our tour.  It was a gorgeous morning and the views were spectacular, right over to the lake and with a fine view of the city.

But in the winter?  Brrrr!   Candy told me they can get 70” of snow here and that people are paid $10 an hour to clear snow from the seats before a match.  The pitch itself is heated by warm water pipes underneath.

By now, we were at the most expensive level of seating; the best of both worlds.  Outside, for the atmosphere but with an indoor area for when it gets really cold and access to a club in the stand too.

“Ordinary” seating was closest to the pitch and was formed of simple benches with 18” placements.

(In the lift, Candy warned us that as we arrived at the next floor, the (rival) Bears’ anthem would be played.  “Listen out”, she advised, as the doors opened and the announcement “Going Down” was heard.   Much tittering in the audience, then!)

Our stadium tour complete, we did a quick tour of the Hall of Fame/Packers Museum.  I learned that I wouldn’t cut the mustard when it comes to hand size!

It was all rather interesting, though we didn’t really have the knowledge to make the most of the exhibits.

And I never did find out what the white “hanky” the players tuck into their waistband is for.

But I did find my souvenir T shirt in the shop!

After a basket of parmesan fried cheese curds (well, we are in Wisconsin!) we left Lambeau Field and the Packers behind and moved on to the Railroad Museum.

My Hero had done his homework and knew what to expect here, looking forward especially to seeing the electric GG1 engine and the Union Pacific “Big Boy” next door.

We’d seen the huge Allegheny engine in the Ford collection, but this was even bigger. Enormous!

Alongside, rather small in comparison, was the Dwight D Eisenhower.  Familiar to us as the Mallard or Sir Nigel Gresley, I was a little irritated by the lampstand which spoiled the pictures we tried to take of it.

One of the first model engines we came across was this Aerotrain, designed to appeal to a car owning generation during the 1950s.

Out in the shed was the sad reality.  An Aerotrain and two carriages was there, looking rather shabby and the carriages in particular in pretty poor shape. 

Our here were other engines, some indoors, others outside but all looking rather sorry and uncared for.

I appreciate that it’s an enormous task to bring everything into first class order, but couldn’t help but feel that it’d be better to keep these things under wraps and not have them on general view.

It’s hardly inspiring to see such a jumble of steel and rust and those for whom these engines would provide important research resources could be given special access if necessary.

It was hard to imagine how any small boy would feel inspired to learn more by most of these “works in progress” and without my hero on hand to explain what was what, I think we’d have given up and left, once we’d seen the first three engines.

Green Bay has proved to be more of a railway city than I imagined, though, for we returned to Titletown for dinner this evening, sitting beneath this fun clock, even if my hero did comment that the engine was not originally painted in Packers colours!

And though I’ve tried to scrub it off, I appear to have another lasting souvenir of the Packers to take to Chicago with me tomorrow 

Into the Dairy State

Years ago, when our trips to the USA were usually to Florida to escape the January gloom, Edward’s friend Seb took a shine to the Green Bay Packers, who were one of the teams in that year’s Superbowl.  Little did we know that, some years later, we’d find ourselves in Green Bay, driving past the Packers stadium and considering a visit there tomorrow!

I have to say, our last night in Michigan in a Holiday Inn Express in Munising, was not the most successful.  The hotel was packed full with large, noisy families and at times, the door slams and thud-thud thud of running down the halls reminded us that, as much fun as road trips can be, there are times when we look forward to being at home. 

As we wheeled our luggage out to the car, one family was stuffing what seemed like the contents of their home (and their neighbour’s), the family bedding, a couple of week’s food shopping, a kayak or two and a few bikes into theirs.  Rather them than me.

The first part of our journey was on bumpy, pot holed roads through the Hiawatha National Forest.  A bit like driving at home, then!

After an hour or more, we found ourselves back alongside Lake Michigan.

We crossed a river with a significant water operation going on too, though I have no idea where it was.  I must have been snoozing!

Eventually, just when we were all feeling a little dopey, we arrived in Escanaba, where a small lighthouse gave us reason to get out of the car and get some fresh air.

Ah, the lake.

We found ourselves on the Circle Lake Michigan route once again.

Occasionally, we pass something which makes me grab my camera and take a quick snap.  Who knew the Lloyd Loom chairs were made here?  Not me!  (But there’s a chequered history of the company/design/manufacture it seems)

But I was ready for the state line snap, in the middle of a bridge.  Saying ‘bye to Michigan and hello Wisconsin.

Marinette, the first city over the border was an elegant place with large, imposing buildings.

My hero screeched to a halt outside a quilt shop shortly afterwards, too.

The dilemma was, what fabric to choose as a souvenir from our Michigan road trip when we’re already in Wisconsin?  The answer, some mitten-patterned flannel for a cushion or two!

Into the Dairy state then, with green meadows, Holstein cattle and large red barns.

Hey, there’s a quilt on that one!

Soon, we were into Green Bay and one of the first landmarks we saw was the imposing Lambeau Field, where the Packers play.

The cute image in the foyer of the Hampton Inn said it all.  Cows and football, eh?

We set off to walk over the bridge to dinner this evening, except that as we did, the bells rang and the bridge lifted.  As it went down again, the bridge master came out to address a couple of young men who had ducked under the gates and crossed as it was opening/closing.  He’d called the police and was especially vigilant as result of an accident last week. 

We were heading for the highly recommended Titletown, located in the former depot of the Chicago and North Western Railroad.

One of us was especially interested in the artwork, but the food was pretty good too

A Superior frame of mind

We left Sault Ste Marie this morning and began our journey through part of the Upper Peninsula, where the Yoopers live.  Our route was highly recommended by those who know about such things and whilst putting some details on our map, we realised that much of it followed the Whitefish Bay Scenic Drive.

And yes, much of it followed the coast of Lake Superior.

By sheer coincidence, I discovered that one of the pages I’d scanned before leaving home was a commentary of our planned journey today.  Yes, of course we watched for black bears.  No, we did not see any

Our first stop was the lookout over Spectacle Lake.   Lovely!

Next stop was the Port Iroquois Lighthouse, a little further along the lake shore.

These byways are so well documented and offer a great deal of information along the way.

We had a great view of the shipping channel from here, unsurprisingly.  That’s Canada over there, by the way.

A sturdy boardwalk led down to the lakeside.

Once again, we noted that the Great Lakes are enormous, like inland seas really.

Yes, I had to put my feet in Lake Superior.  Brrrr! 

What a great place.  But the bugs were out and we’d not applied any repellent this morning, so it was time to go before we regretted it!

Nevertheless, I had to take a photograph of the stones in the lake.  All colours, they looked beautiful in the clear water, even if they didn’t make paddling very easy.

The next stop on our page was Pendills Creek Fish Hatchery.  Worth a stop?

Why not?

In fifteen minutes or so, we learned so much from Julie, a member of the hatchery staff, who expertly outlined the background to the project and the whole process of restocking the Great Lakes with trout; a project which has been so successful that the number of trout is almost at a self-sustaining level now.

Part of the fun of a road trip is learning about things we never knew were there to learn about!

Anyway, full marks, Pendills Creek Hatchery.  Full marks plus to Julie, too!

By the time we’d reached Salt Point, we felt we’d got the measure of the Lake Superior beaches.  That smooth sand was just too inviting though.

Shame I didn’t get my character placement correct, though!  Sorry Mary.

The last stop on the scenic route was the very tip of the peninsula: Whitefish Point.  Though there is a lighthouse here and another lovely beach, the main attraction is the Shipwreck Museum.

We began our visit with the introductory film, which focused on what is probably the best known shipwreck amongst many such events in the near vicinity, the Edmund Fitzgerald.

We saw how the original ship’s bell had been lifted to form a memorial to the 29 lost souls and outside, took a look at what appears to be a new memorial on the beach nearby.  As we did, the soundtrack in our minds was Gordon Lightfoot.

There was a small collection of items relating to the US Coastguard nearby.

How primitive some of the lifesaving implements were, too.

In the reconstructed lighthouse keeper’s cottage, the figure was eerily realistic!

The main event, the museum itself, was excellent, if a little sobering.  Here was that bell, raised from the wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald together with the stories of many other dreadful events which have occurred in these treacherous waters.

After a while, we took refuge in the gift shop, where the “Superior state of mind” took shape.

We had just one more item on our list for today: The Tahquamenon Falls.

We knew to expect brown, tannin-coloured water, but were surprised by the extent of the falls.  They are pretty huge!

Well into the afternoon by now, it was time to crack on towards Munising, our overnight stay.

This is a part of the world where people fix snowploughs on their pickup trucks.  I spotted this one in the Ford dealer’s nearby and saw it as an advertising example, but here in our hotel car park, there is a similar vehicle parked near to our own. Be prepared, eh?

Sadly, it’s our last night in Michigan, because tomorrow we cross the border into Wisconsin.  Who knew it was going to be such a magnificent journey through such a superior state?

(Yes, of course you did, Joanne and Terry )

Over the bridge

into the Upper Peninsula today.

First (short) stop was St Ignace, just over the bridge.  We snapped a picture of the lighthouse and continued on our way.

I know, I’ve shared road trip pictures before, but these long, straight roads just seem to sum it up sometimes.  I’d have been knitting, but having reorganised our luggage for the island, I didn’t have it to hand.  So I sat and sorted journal ephemera and entertained the crew with the sound of rustling paper.

We are travelling close to the Canadian border again.

Before long, we were in the city of Sault Ste Marie.  It’s nothing like as affluent as some of the small towns we’ve been travelling through, but we had a clear destination in mind.

We were going to take a look at the Soo Locks, which enable shipping to travel between Lakes Superior and Huron.

We’re right there in the red O and looking at it like this, we can get a great view of where we’ve been.

With a small yellow boat in the lock when we arrived, we lost no time in getting out there to see what was going on.

But once it had gone, we returned to the Visitor Centre to see what it was all about.  Looking at it like this, the importance of these locks became clear.  Thinking about it, what’s the alternative?  (if there is one at all?)

The relative levels of the lakes and the St Lawrence Seaway (and the Atlantic Ocean) was interesting to see too.  Who knew that Lake Superior was so deep – or so high?  Not me!

Anyway, as we stood chatting and looking around, we noticed there was another ship due. 

So we dashed out to the viewing area to take a look.

It was a slow old do, but eventually, the Federal Bering eased into the lock basin, close behind the cheerful red and green tug which had been sailing alongside.

We stood watching as they progressed through the whole lock process and eventually sailed out into Lake Huron, on the way to Sorel, east of Montreal, Canada.

Meanwhile,  we were chatting to our fellow ship nerds and watching as another tour boat came through.

All rather entertaining, if a little slow.  Plus, the show seemed to have ended for today.

So, it was time to go and check into our Hampton Inn for the night – a bright new property on the edge of town.  Not quite the Grand Hotel but a perfectly comfortable and very familiar format which suits us very well.  We identified a good place for dinner tonight on the way, so we can be back in time for Fixer Upper!

More Mackinac

Not quite done there yet!

When we woke this morning and saw the sunshine coming through the curtains, there was no question about it – open all twelve (yes!) pairs of curtains and let the sun shine in!

The Grand Hotel operates on a dinner, bed and breakfast basis, so you’ll guess what was next on our agenda.  Whilst there, I had to take a photo of the e-n-o-r-m-o-u-s dining room.

Actually, that was half – above is the other half.  Oh, and there’s another section to the right as well!

From there, we did what we’d been unable to do yesterday – walk along the porch and take sunny pictures.

The red geraniums looked glorious.

The view across the strait, similarly so.  What a difference a bit of sunshine makes.

We hadn’t noticed the planted horse and carriage in the garden yesterday.

Neither had we noticed the staff member standing by the entrance to collect admission fees!

On this lovely morning, we could see people beginning to arrive on the ferries.  Yesterday, the three of us and about another half dozen folks chose to sit inside, but today, they were up top as well, enjoying the fresh air.  When we thought about it, we felt the rain had perhaps done us a favour yesterday in keeping the crowds away?

The view of the bridge was lovely too.  We’d be driving over it later.

I was glad I’d worn my black patent sandals with red shiny toes to match the carpet!

There was just enough time left to take photographs of one or two things we’d missed, like these phone booths.  More green and white stripes!

The teddy bear ferris wheel too!  Well, I’d taken photos of that for Lesley, but this morning, without anyone else around, it was easier!

But we couldn’t stretch it out any longer.  It was time to go.  We’d sent our bags on ahead, so checked out and made our way down into town, to the ferry terminal.

One last look at our room, up there on the third floor; the curved windows.

Aaah.

Walking down to the ferry, we had chance to peer inside some gorgeous gardens.  The season here is short but flowers are abundant.

Hehe, the better weather gave me a better shot of the lighthouse too.

Standing looking over the strait, I mused on this lovely garden.  A great view of the bridge, the water lapping at the rocks, flowers, well tended lawn, visitors gawping over the fence…what more could one want?

And here we were, at the ferry.  Good grief.

(let me remind you of what it looked like yesterday…)

Well, once more, what a difference a bit of sunshine makes, eh?

Feeling rather pleased that the rain yesterday hadn’t stopped us from doing what we planned and the sunshine today gave us a view of the island in better weather, we counted our blessings and felt more than happy.

We boarded the 11.00am ferry and said ‘bye to the island.

I chose to sit up top for an exhilarating ride!

Better views, too.

Well, of course, I had to take one last shot, didn’t I?

As we arrived, another full boat was just leaving and the queue for the next one stretched out to the road.

The system worked beautifully again and having collected our car and our bags, within half an hour we were over that bridge!

The road trip continues.