Cochin

Having completed our shopping wishes yesterday, we joined a short tour of Cochin this morning, setting off before the heat became too oppressive.

I try hard to be sensitive in the photos I take, always ask permission of those who will be the focus of a picture and feel a responsibility to record a fair portrait of a place without dwelling on one particular aspect.  I recognise that the places we visit are not all perfect in every way but yet I don’t want to give too much precedence to the more unpleasant aspects.  When I uploaded today’s photographs, therefore, I was surprised to see the figure lying in the road.  When I took the photograph, I’m ashamed to say that I didn’t notice him – I may well have framed the picture differently if I had.  But in telling the story of our day, it seems wrong to crop him out of the picture.  Cochin is, I’m sure, far from being the only city in the world where someone is sleeping (I hope) on the street at 9am on a Tuesday morning.

So, having driven through the streets and made our way to Fort Cochin, the old European settlement, our first stop was at the small church of St Francis.  We stepped inside and appreciated the cool, still air as we looked around.

This is where Vasco da Gama was buried in 1524, before his remains were transferred to Lisbon.  Though this was interesting and our guide certainly had plenty to say about the place, I found myself enjoying a couple of different aspects in here.

First of all, the pews, all of which had beautifully caned seats.  Far more comfortable than the hard wood we endure in our local parish church and a very wise choice for a hot climate.

Second, the punkahs above the rows of seating, operated by the punkah-walla sitting outside.  These could be sprayed with water, offering a cooling breeze during a long service.  Fascinating!

Cochin has always been a city of traders and of course, any area frequented by tourists was going to attract the trinket sellers.  We walked along here to the Chinese fishing nets, with the constant and persistent attention of people wanting to sell us fans, anklets, postcards, paintings, whatever.

Having arrived at the fishing nets, the focus changed from trying to sell things to offering to move the nets for photos, “for five dollar”.  Bearing in mind the heat was building, the fish was being sold nearby and the nets were drying in the sun, this wasn’t the most fragrant of places to linger.

Nevertheless, I lightened this woman’s load of wooden printing stamps by one, handing it to my hero to carry for me.  Five minutes later, when we were both covered with red ink, I was beginning to question the wisdom of my purchase.

(If anyone needs a fingerprint from me, I can supply several pretty near perfect ones from the sketchbook cover I was carrying!)

Onwards, through narrow streets “like any European city” according to our guide, which perhaps revealed how little he knew of such places, but clearly the upmarket guest houses and small boutique hotels in this area are flourishing.  Delightfully pretty on the outside, I wonder what the inside is like?

Cochin is a remarkably green place and we did a fair bit of fruit spotting along the way.  Above are breadfruit, used as vegetables here.

Next door were many banana trees and huge jackfruit, sometimes weighing 15kg each.

The roof structure of the small museum was interesting, especially where the design on the reverse of the terracotta roof tiles was visible.

My favourite had to be this lock, though.  I’m pleased to say it was given pride of place in the museum collection.

After a brief stop at the Dutch Palace, we were set free in Jew Street.

This area of the city is the main focus for tourist shopping and undoubtedly there were bargains to be had.  However, most things were of inferior quality to those we saw yesterday and we found ourselves feeling pleased that we had already bought our souvenirs.

So, whilst most people dipped in and out of the clothing stores, the jewellers and antique shops, we just looked…here, inside the ginger market, where large quantities of dried ginger were being graded and sold wholesale.

Resisting all invitations to “come inside madam….just take a short look…one minute to see what lovely things are here…” we pottered around for a half hour.

Cupboard door knob anyone?  I think we identified where Anthropologie sources theirs…

What about a Buddha?  A metal horse?  An elephant?  Not really our thing!

With a final admission that we’d really seen everything, we returned “home”, to a cool beer and a change of clothes.

Cochin is lovely and indeed, a shopper’s paradise in so many ways.  But once again, our mantra was the word of the day.

Enough.

A few of my favourite things

Arriving at new, exotic places.

Warm welcomes with drums, dancing, costumes.

Gorgeous textiles.  Silk, wool, cotton, all with the most exquisite designs.

The quirky and the slightly unusual.  The fact that I can enjoy looking at something without needing to bring it home!

The oddball store.  The one selling things made from sisal.

Spices.  The wonderful aroma when stepping into a spice market.

Hardware stores.  Places selling everyday things which aren’t quite the same as at home.

Displays of unremarkable things which somehow manage to achieve remarkable status in some way. 

Yes, those are buckets.  Plastic buckets.

So, time to reveal the purchases today, here in Cochin.

Three gorgeous shawls: a wool/silk blend (pink/grey weave) a patterned silk “pashmina”, a wool shawl with chain stitch embroidery over 99% of the surface.  A stone pendant in greens, greys, blues in a silver mount.  A variety of spices including two varieties of cinnamon, cardamom pods and mace.  Finally, a three-storey tiffin carrier, the bargain of the day at just 300 rp, less than £4 from the amazing hardware store where I could have spent all day.

Shopping complete, we’ll do the sightseeing bit tomorrow.

Other peoples’ laundry

We’re in Cochin now, the weather has cleared and we’ve had a fun afternoon out in the town with a couple of friends.  Before I reveal too much about the haul of treasures we brought back from the jewellery store, the shawl shop and so on, I thought I’d share what was probably the most interesting fifteen minutes of the afternoon.

We went to the Dhoby Ghat.  The Community Laundry.

This is Dhoby Street.  Pretty unpreposessing and much like many of the other streets in the area.  In the steel workshop by the pale green wall, a man was welding some cupboards together – there are some finished products out there on the pavement.  The red sign is for a ayurvedic medicine store and the bottles were all lined up on the shelf at the rear of the shop.  But behind this row of shop fronts lies a similarly constructed shed where the laundry is being done.

This young man was ironing, looking out of the window over the pathway and was smiling broadly until I asked if I may take his photograph, when he stood still and serious!  He was ironing with an electric iron with a huge soleplate, working his way through a whole heap of tablecloths and other flat linens.  You can see his “done” pile there, all neatly folded.

On the other side of the ironing workshop was this small woman who didn’t have the luxury of an electric iron but who was using this one heated by a small burner inside it.  She allowed me to pick it up and have a go – it weighed a ton and those small arms must be incredibly strong to be able to use it for any length of time.

The radio was on, tuned to an Indian pop station and the atmosphere was jolly if a little steamy!

All around were piles of clean washing, ready for ironing or for parcelling up for return to the owners.  The site foreman introduced himself to us (in the hope of a tip, we think) and explained that all laundry is completed and returned within a day.  Incredible.

Across the yard were about twenty of these washing rooms, each with a large sink, a stone for bashing the washing on and a tap with running water.  Whilst we were there, no-one was working, though a couple of the men were just returning to work after a short break.

Out in the garden, adjacent to these ghats, several lines had been strung up and a few lonely shirts were hanging out there, drying.

These two jolly chaps were in another corner, folding sheets.  I think these were the clean ones, being returned to their owners but as my doubt suggests, let’s simply say they had seen better days!  The chap in the foreground, wearing a lunghi was rather proud of his moustache and twirled it especially for his photograph!

As we thanked everyone for allowing us the privilege of watching them work, we left some rupees behind in the donation box (rather than just giving it to the foreman!) and waved goodbye.

The next load of washing had just arrived.

Later that same day…

We were back in the melee that is a city in this part of the world, though it was Sunday and the traffic was surprisingly light.

Watching people go about their daily business is always fascinating to me, and I could happily drive around for hours, just looking, observing, noticing.  Perhaps that’s as well, for we seemed to drive around in circles, passing the same recognisable buildings time and again.

There were many relics of the former British administration and the city is an interesting mix of faded glory and the here and now.

Though well tended and maintained, I felt the buildings had a slightly “lost” air to them, as if awaiting some new and exciting reincarnation.  Our guide explained that Sri Lanka has been passed over by tourists in recent years due to unsettling local events and security fears, but he hoped we will all return and bring our friends next time.

Having just passed the “Office of the Commission to Investigate Allegations of Bribery or Corruption” our driver was stopped at a police checkpoint and fined 1000rp for driving in the wrong lane.  Later, we hear that every vehicle was stopped at that point and fined the same charge.

Our next stop was Independence Square, site of the signing of the treaty in 1948.  We could see how the design of this building referenced the ruins in Polonnaruwa, especially the square pillars carved with beautiful designs.  It’s always good when something like that comes together, to make connections and join the dots.

From there, we drove to the former Prime Ministers house, now the National Museum.  It’s a lovely building in a lush green setting, though inside it was a little dusty and old fashioned.

Nevertheless, there were some lovely exhibits, some excellent explanations (of the moonstones and features of the temple doorways for example)

and we enjoyed just exploring the cool, shady rooms for an hour.

When we emerged into the sunlight again, we found a little welcome party!  The lads from the local Muslim school were out on a study visit and wanted to chat.  We shared the basic information about each other: “What is your name?” “Where are you from?” and so on, and giggled when one of them produced a stars and stripes hankie, waving it in the air.  Their conversation was charming, their ready smiles and genuine friendliness engaging and their teachers stood back and watched with pride as their young charges giggled and teased one another to overcome their shyness.

Whilst we were bantering with the lads, another little family stood quietly watching, amused at the hoohah going on in this quietest and most sedate of places.

Time to move right along then, past a cricket ground and

another cricket ground (note the post boxes!)  Our guide explained the rules of “village” cricket – including the interesting one which said that any passer by is automatically a member of the fielding team!

We crossed over a level crossing by a suburban railway station which looked oh so familiar – I’m sure I used to travel from a station of exactly that same design when I was a child!

Eventually, we arrived at the coast road and looked at that sky!  Fortunately, we were heading to another smart hotel for lunch and as we enjoyed another plateful of food (it just keeps coming!!) we watched the heavens open and the storm pass through.

By the time we have finished our meal, regrouped and driven to our next stop, the rain is over and taking our shoes and socks off to walk around a Hindu temple in the puddles was surprisingly refreshing!

As colourful and lavishly decorated as this morning’s stop, the Hindu traditions are represented in an altogether more graphic style.

Every square inch is decorated here, too, in every colour and hue imaginable.  The painting is exuberant, the figures ornate and full of character.  For the second time today, it was hard to know where to point my camera next and I took another hundred photographs…

I especially liked the small details, the dark corners and the overlooked parts down there at below knee level.

But I also loved the grand design; the overview too.  Look at that copper chimney rising through a hole in the roof.

The temple would normally be closed today but has been opened especially for us to look around, so there is no-one to disturb.  The monk who takes care of the temple is present and watches us gently as we ooh and aah at his treasure.

Thinking I’ve seen and absorbed as much as I can and noting my group gathering to leave, I take one final look upwards – this is what I see.  My reward?

The day is almost done except for the inevitable shopping stop, today at a “gems outlet”.  We’ve been warned that the best gems go for export, that it’s not advisable to buy unless we know exactly what we’re buying, but that doesn’t stop some!  Not in that league myself, I potter about wondering how many different interpretations of elephants we’ve seen in the last few days and succumb to two small batik elephant panels, probably to be made into a couple of little cushions when we’re home.

Lynn, I can understand how Sri Lanka captivates you.  We felt much the same and I feel sure that we will return before too long.  I hope the storms will hold off next time, though!

Colombo

Safely into Colombo harbour last night, albeit in a cargo berth with a view of three silos from our window and a rather oily atmosphere overnight.  Nevertheless, the Easter Bunny found us!

A little plate of eggs and a chocolate bunny was awaiting us when we got back from dinner last night and the whole ship has a decidedly chocolatey theme to it today.

So, at six this morning, we were scheduled to make the move from the less glamorous bit of the seaport to the passenger terminal and as soon as we did, we were off to explore Colombo.

The buildings around the port area were interesting and had a distinctly Sri Lankan flavour…

Our first stop was the Kelaniya Temple where, as soon as we stepped out of our shoes and into the temple complex, our breath was taken away by the sheer decorative beauty of the place.  Walking barefoot on wet sand, we pottered about outside watching the families arrive to visit the temple and make offerings in their quiet, dignified way.

In the meantime, there was so much to see, so many small details, we didn’t know where to look first.

As usual, my eye went straight for the colour and the area where flowerbuds, water and prayer flags had been left.

The fresh blossoms signify youth and remind the worshippers of the transience of life.

I wanted to ask our guide about the thread held by the girls but sadly forgot.  Another thing to add to my ever lengthening list.

As we stood admiring the flowers a woman brought over a single blue lotus flower, suggesting to our friend that she offer it for someone dear to her.  The flower itself was magnificent, appearing to have some kind of inner light in the centre.  I had not seen that particular kind of lotus flower before and must say that my photograph doesn’t really catch the irridescence of the real thing.

But if outside was breathtaking, the inside of the principal building was in another league.  We began in the entry hall, where every surface was decorated with dark, rich painting of awe-inspiring detail.

This, one small corner of it gives some kind of impression of what greeted us when we stepped inside.

Each small area was a masterpiece in itself and we could have stayed much, much longer, peering in the half-light at these beautiful images.

But clearly, there was more to see.  In the next room lay a reclining Buddha, which reminded me that I didn’t have the answer to my earlier question – was this a reclining Buddha sleeping, or passed away?  Our guide had the answer: four features define these two states and this one was sleeping because his eyes were partly open, his headpiece was bright and shiny, his toes parallel and his chest expanded.  Now I know what to look for!

More blossoms along the shelf in front of this huge Buddha, tiny scented jewels every one.

The figure itself was magnificent, even shrouded in the net curtain.

The next room was altogether different in feel from the first, being painted top to bottom in a more watercolour style, almost arts and crafts/pre-raphaelite in flavour.

Here, Buddha sat in front of a mountain scene, serenely in an arch.

Remnants of saffron cloth were wrapped here and there, toning beautifully with the ochre patterns on the walls.

Once again, the small scenes depicted were exquisite in detail and rewarded a close look.

We could have spent hours in this room too, gazing at each wall in turn, but as usual, it was time to move right along.

Stepping outside into the bright sunshine – sorry about the shadow – there was an elaborate moonstone as we’d come to expect now.

The archway was supported by a fine elephant, too.  We were to find out more about the features of the doorways later on, when we visited the museum.  For now, we simply admired.

All the time we were admiring, the visitors to the temple were going about their business, making their offerings and prayers in their traditional, quiet manner.  Though I felt that we were intruding, we were reassured that this was not the case.

This monk was completely at peace in a busy thoroughfare

and another had found a shady spot for his meditation.

Leaving the temple behind, passing by the flower sellers in the car park, we really would have felt satisfied had our tour ended there.  Already we had seen and absorbed so much and it wasn’t even 9am!

But there was more to come.  Firstly, a flavour of Colombo’s young men and their “cars” – or rather three-wheelers, which amused us with the slogans and little personalisations

These little vehicles are the mainstay of life here, as in other places we’ve visited recently.  But here in Colombo, they are far from the rickety, held-together-with-string-and-a-bit-of-tape variety we’ve seen in Chennai.  No, here they are souped-up, designer three-wheelers!  What fun!

So, there’s more to come.  We’ll visit the museum and the Hindu temple this afternoon, but for now…enough!