Going west

Time to move on today and armed with a list of must-see places thanks to Adam, the cheerful young concierge in the Morrison Hotel in Dublin, we headed west on the N4 towards Galway.

As we neared the half way point, we left the motorway and continued our journey on ordinary roads, planning to take a break around lunchtime.  We found ourselves driving through an area of peat bogs and stopped to take a closer look at the stacks of peat blocks drying in the sunshine.

Our plan was to take a break at Clonmacnoise where we could spend some time learning a little about St Ciaran and his followers at the Irish Heritage site here.  It was a busy place and the car park already full, so we found a small patch of wide grassy verge and though there were no other cars around, we felt we’d left it in a safe place.

We walked into the monastery site and joined the delightful Davina for a guided tour.  Her Irish wit and amusing delivery had us all smiling in no time – what a great way to hear about this rather special place.

She explained all the motifs on the main replica crosses in the graveyard, the originals being in the museum next door.

She explained how to use the shape of the North Door to whisper a secret or share a confession to someone standing on the other side.

And she invited two of the group to dip their hands in the water contained within the magic stone, explaining that it could cure warts…or cause their hand to drop off overnight.

The two “victims” laughed.  So did we.

Davina winked.

Standing above the Shannon River, there was a chill breeze up here, so we didn’t linger too long, but it was a fascinating place and we were really pleased we’d come.

Before we left, we stopped in the museum to take a look at the original crosses and watch the video explaining the history of the place, auf Deutsch because we couldn’t be bothered to wait until the English language show.  Ellis and Mary took the chance to have forty winks!

Though the original crosses were beautiful, as always I went for the fragments of patterned stone.  Love them.

Returning to the car then, it seemed as though we’d started a trend for on-street parking!

We arrived at our hotel in Galway in the early afternoon and are very happy with our comfortable room, bearing a couple of hallmarks of the designer – Philip Treacy.

But though our room is lovely, the corridors are painted a deep purple and there’s a magenta carpet throughout and very low level lighting.

The hotel is on the edge of town; a low glass-fronted structure overlooking the bay to the front.  However, both our rooms overlook the back of the hotel and have a fine view of the shopping centre behind it: Pets at Home, PC World and Maplins.  Not quite in the same vein…

We spent the afternoon in Galway City, where gentlemen sat watching the world go by.

There was a lively buzz in the main shopping street and we were glad to find O’Mailles.

The shop came highly recommended by the chap in the Tourist Information Centre.

Each Aran sweater was signed by the maker and came beautifully presented.

Whilst Mary chose some hanks of yarn to take home, my hero found a tweed cap to add to his collection.

I was happy to admire the amazing hydrangeas in the flower shop along the street as we enjoyed the first Irish coffee of the trip (not the last, I’ll bet!)

This evening, we’ve been to a performance of Trad on the Prom which was absolutely incredible.  World class Irish dancing accompanied by fine musicians; we loved every minute.  We left tapping our feet!   Sorry, no photos, but the website gives a great taste of the show.

A day in Dublin

We’ve actually been to the city of green pillar boxes before, but I’m not sure a couple of hours in the Temple Bar really counts.  So, for our first real day in Dublin, we set out after breakfast with umbrellas and sweaters but fingers crossed, we’d need neither.

Our first stop was Dublin Castle and that small break in the clouds wasn’t quite enough to tempt us take off our sweaters just yet.  In fact, there was quite a chill wind blowing and we were rather pleased to step inside for a while.

Though the interiors were interesting and the history well presented, the star of the show for me was the Playing with Tradition exhibition, where traditional crafts were presented in a contemporary style.

My favourite was All About Sleeves, by Karen Brennan.  Made in Irish Linen, these exquisitely made cuffs were presented as a means of dressing up a T shirt or worn over or under another sleeve.  Clearly, they were a favourite with others too, for there were none to be bought, no information cards to be had or story to be found.  They spoke for themselves – very well, too.

We’d seen plenty of tourists around yesterday and if we had wondered then if there was anyone left in the rest of Europe, today would confirm that doubt.  Everywhere we went there were hordes of tourists and yes, although we four counted amongst that number, I hope we were less obtrusive than the larger, guided groups who must make life in the city incredibly difficult for the residents.  Still, we all bring in the Euros…

Our next stop was packed full of tourists too.

I was quite keen to see the Guinness storehouse (no longer a factory) and it was an easy walk from the castle.  The queues to get in made me wonder if I’d been a little hasty in my enthusiasm, though.

We headed straight upstairs to the Gravity Bar, from where there was a splendid view now the clouds were beginning to break up.  Even at this hour of the morning, the Guinness was flowing freely, not that we were ready to join the drinkers just yet.

During the next couple of hours, we followed the pathway through the five floors of exhibits most of which were a little thin on content.  This whole place was a triumph of design and though I loved the graphics and the manner in which the whole place had been styled, the information presented would have easily have fitted in one small display.  Still, here was a huge former storehouse to spread it out…

One floor was dedicated to the Academy, where visitors could be taught how to pour a glass of Guinness.  We looked at the queue and chose to be visual rather than kinaesthetic learners – none of us really felt the need to stand behind the pumps and pour it ourselves when we could watch the experts!

Instead, we went to the tasting room, to listen to Grainne (pronounced Gronya) explain about the flavours and to sample a tiny glass to experience them for ourselves.  And though we walked through the exhibition about the brewing process, my favourite part of the whole place was on the fifth floor.

Here, we found four chairs by an open window and with a fine view of the city and a pint of Guinness in hand, for half an hour or so I enjoyed a little respite from the crowds.

It didn’t last long, however.  Our next stop was St Patricks Cathedral, where the queues were as long as for the Guinness!

Once inside, we each went our own way to take a look around.

I joined the brass rubbers and created my own souvenir before moving along to take a closer look in a couple of the quieter corners.

It was actually a rather lovely space.  Peaceful and understated; crowded but with quiet and respectful people.  I was glad we’d come here.

How many times do I get to stand on such a beautiful floor?

Actually, the cathedral looks rather larger and grander from outside than from within.  Having approached it from the “wrong” side, we’d not had the benefit of the lovely garden setting, either.  On this warm and sunny afternoon, we got an altogether different impression as we left, heading back into the city.

Our last stop of the day was Trinity College, where we joined a small group led by a student.  Here too, the crowds were out in force, but somehow she managed to keep us together.

We’d intended to see the Book of Kells but this time, the queue defeated us.  At 4 in the afternoon, we were just too weary and footsore to stand for another hour or more and decided we will just have to come back to Dublin once again to see it.

This evening, we’ve been to the theatre, to see “Once”.  Though we’d not heard of it before, Ellis and Mary had seen it on Broadway and loved it.

We did too!

What a great way to end a fantastic day in Dublin.  Tomorrow, we’re moving on and I hope we’ll leave some of the crowds behind as we head off into the countryside.  I’ll let you know if we find a bit more breathing space later.

Off we go again

The travelling companions were eager to be off once more.

Travelling with friends, the journey was problem free, though Heathrow was incredibly busy.

Our flight arrived on time and we were soon on our way into the city.

Drive on the left!  As if we needed a reminder.

The last time I posted so many green photographs we were in Libya!

Needless to say, we are most certainly not in Tripoli today.

We’re starting another road trip, a little closer to home this time and look forward to enjoying the aran knitting,

the poetry

the music

and the craic.

As if you didn’t know already, we’re in Dublin, where (a different) Mary reckons that Molly Malone was selling more than cockles and mussels, if you ask her.  And only now, whilst uploading the photograph did I notice which part of sweet Molly Malone gets the most attention, too.

The sun was shining, the city was buzzing and our road trip is off to a cracking start.

But of course, I had to take a photograph of this sign in Avoca, by the notebooks and so on.

Grrrrr!   (and I now know I’m not alone – thank you for the reassurance)

How hard can it be?

I didn’t intend the first part of the next adventure to be on a hobby horse, but forgive me for having a small rant this morning.  I’m a member of a mailing list which is particularly active right now, discussing the topic of stationery.   That’s right, pens, paper and so on.

This week, I placed an order with my favourite BureauDirect and as always, had exemplary customer service with a query I had.  There is was again, that word stationery.

Earlier this week, though, I read a report about a woman posing with a “stationery animal” she’d just shot.  That can’t have been difficult, can it?  Less of a hunt, more of a paper chase don’t you think?  Then, there were those discussing a “stationary club” which they were thinking of joining, except I don’t really think they knew the difference between pens and paper and things which stand still.

I can’t be the only one who is more than slightly irritated by bad spelling, can I?  For some reason, this particular mix up is a special bête noire of mine and during the last few days I seem to have noticed it more than usual.  The icing on the cake was this:

“Stationery, Boxed Stationary & Stationery Sets Online Store ...www.papyrusonline.com/stationery.html”

Two different spellings of the same thing used in a single phrase!  Wow.

Try doing a google image search for “stationary” and see what I mean.

All work and no play

Well, we know what that makes me, don’t we?  So, it’s just as well that most of the time in my life, it’s hard to draw the line where work stops and play begins.

Yesterday was definitely a play day though.  No. Work. At. All.  Well, if you discount the flurry of emails flying to and fro and the little side conversation with another colleague about something altogether different.  The ease of mobile communication means the edges are blurred all the time, doesn’t it?

No, we weren’t at the seaside yesterday, though, but meeting good friends for lunch at OXO Tower which gave us a chance to explore a little corner which was totally unfamiliar to us.  Great lunch, lovely (and lively!) conversation and a fun time all round.

In the late afternoon, we took the #23 back to Oxford Street and met Edward and Amy for drinks in Harry Gordon’s Bar in Selfridges, fearful of the effects of the tube strike and preferring to be within easy reach of Paddington.  We didn’t need to worry really and we easily caught our (almost empty) train home with no hassle at all.

Earlier in the week, I’d been in Newtown, Powys, at Oriel Davies gallery, where there’s a fantastic exhibition on right now – Flora.

The two glass screens were holding a hundred or more red gerberas, which are quietly decaying and changing throughout the duration of the exhibition.  Hmm.

I wonder what the cleaning staff think of it?

I found it interesting that the exhibition could not really be described as “pretty”.  That a show of “flora” totally managed to avoid the twee and the cliche.  I loved Ori Gersht’s work

and that of  Emma Bennett too.  These black canvases with beautifully painted (sort of) still life arrangements looked stunning in the gallery and I really appreciated the space each piece had been given.

How could I call this work then, when I’m somewhere as interesting as this?

But work it was and yes, I agree, it can’t be so bad, can it?!

Maybe it’s just my frame of mind this week, because even the “normal”, the “routine” places of work somehow took on a summer look.

On Tuesday, I returned to the Folk Museum where Marion and I did an interview with Pete Wilson, of BBC Radio Gloucestershire.  Still looking good, thank goodness, and only a couple of minor slippages

More work today but then…adventures on the horizon!

Are you ready?